About this Blog
The blog focuses on the essence of wine and food, not how many points or stars it receives. The opinions are mine and should be taken only as that, an opinion not gospel.
Like many collectors, initially I was very much influenced by wine ratings. I purchased wines based on points, even if I had never tasted the wine. And it was much worse than that. I would drink a wine with a high rating, not like it, yet since it was highly rated I’d rationalize that I did not yet appreciate the wine, or that my palate was not sophisticated enough to understand the wine. How’s that for lunacy? As a result my cellar grew in all directions while my palate narrowed. By the time I realized the style of wine that I enjoyed, my cellar abounded with wines whose styles I did not enjoy. All of these wines were very highly rated, just not my cup of tea, or glass of wine to be more accurate. Fortunately I was able to sell many of these wines to those who either enjoyed them or wanted highly rated wines. Don’t misunderstand, I am not against wines with high ratings, in fact I own many. It is just that I now purchase wines based on the producer, the style and my palate, not the rating. Nor do I shun reading reviews. I very much respect Antonio Galloni, Alan Meadows, Eric Asimov and John Gilman and read their reviews routinely. I pay attention to what they write, not the points they award.
Thursday, January 30, 2014
We met at Nice Matin on the upper Westside of Manhattan. The restaurant is owned by a group whose holdings include The 5 Napkin Burger and Marseille to name a couple. The bistro food here is good, but it is the lengthy and passionate wine list that is the real star here. It was obvious to me that it was put together with great attention and passion being paid to wines created by passionate winemakers. It is an amazing list of 2500 selections, that includes wine collections such as JFK's that features pre-phylloxera historical vintages and the famed Restaurant Chanterelle collection, among others. There are wines rarely found on wine lists such as the amazing Cabernet Francs of Charles Jouget and Olga Raffaut of the Chinon (Loire Valley); Cuvée Faustine Ajaccio from Comte Abbatucci on the island of Corsica. The list goes on and on and is priced reasonably and intelligently. It is easy to see that Wine Director Aviram Turgeman and sommelier Sean Cummings are interested in making it easy for their customers to experience and enjoy great wines at reasonable prices. My hats off to you two gentlemen.
Along with our lunch that included a delicious homemade vegetable beef soup and Croque Monseiur, the French version of grilled ham and cheese we reveled over 2006 Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny “Les Poyeux”, an absolutely gorgeous Cabernet Franc that had a compelling and enticing earthy aroma. On the palate it was full-bodied, pure and elegant with a long velvety finish. The wine is still very young and will benefit from a few years in the cellar. This wine should last for another 20 years at least. Very little Clos Rougeard wines are imported into the U.S., so to enjoy this vintage you need to go to Nice Matin. I have the wine in my cellar and I paid $80 for it in 2011. Were it to be available today, I would venture it would set you back about $150. Nice Matin has it on the list for $135. A remarkable price.
There is a terrific video interview with wine director Aviram Turgeman on the Great Sommeliers website. Click here to watch it.
Saturday, January 25, 2014
2011 Corte Gardoni Becco Rosso, $16. Kermit Lynch Imports. While located in the Veneto Gianni Piccoli does not make Valpolicella or Amarone. I was drawn to this wine as it is made from 100% Corvina, the main grape in both Amarone and Valpolicella. I had never had a wine made from 100% Corvina before. It is a very interesting wine that possesses a light strawberry crystal hue with lively fruit, balance and character. I think there is a very good wine here that will emerge in a couple of years. I am told that Gianni’s wines possess incredible longevity. The bottom line here is that Kermit Lynch has done it once again…terrific wine at a terrific price.
Italy – Puglia/Sicily/Tuscany – Red
I have a very good friend, Gino, who has been in the wine business for sometime now. He has a great palate and passion for well-made wine. This year he started his own venture, Ginuzzo, importing wines from Italy, France and Spain. I must admit to being a bit skeptical when he told me he was also going to brand his own Italian wines. That skepticism quickly evaporated when I tasted these wines. While they are not going to compete with the top Italian producers, their high quality and low price may well capture the attention of the casual wine drinker looking for a good wine at a good price.
2011 Ginuzzo Salice Salentino, Puglia. A blend of 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera, this is a very well made wine. It has a very pretty and fruity palate, is nicely balanced and finishes with some length.
2012 Ginuzzo Negroamaro, Puglia. Made from 100% Negroamaro, but with grapes from outside the DOC, this was rich and complex, but lacked the finesse of the Salice Salentino.
2011 Ginuzzo Primitivo, Puglia. The Primitivo grape is also known as Zinfandel and if you like Zinfandel, this is a wine for you. While I am not a fan of Zinfandel, this wine had good character and body.
2011 Ginuzzo Nero d’Avola, Sicily. The Nero d’Avola grape is the most important grape in Sicily. It produces deep dark red wines with structure and balance. If you have not had the grape before, this would be an excellent wine to try it.
The complete Ginuzzo selection can be found at Wine Legend, Livingston for $15 a bottle. A phenomenal value. I am told that they will also soon be available at ShopRite Liquors in West Caldwell.
Italy – Piedmont – Red
The Nebbiolo grape of Piedmont has sired some of the most remarkable wines in the world, especially Barolo and Barbaresco. While other countries have tried to grow the grape, it really only thrives in the cooler and foggy climates of Piedmont. Its name is in fact derived from the Italian word nebbia which means "fog." In the hands of top winemakers it produces wines of extraordinary character, balance, complexity and elegance. The northernmost region of Piedmont, Gattinara and Valtellina specifically, also produce wonderfully expressive and elegant wines, that are a fraction of the cost of the more expensive Baroli and Barbaresci. This past year I had the good fortune to discover some new producers from the region.
2009 Guido Porro Langhe Nebbiolo, Seralunga d’Alba, $25. Kermit Lynch Imports. Under the direction of young Guido Porro, 4th generation at the estate, this “under the radar” producer is beginning to be discovered thanks to Kermit Lynch. Nebbiolo grapes of quality that do not make the cut to go into Barolo or Barbaresco, can still make very delicious wines, as is the case here with this Langhe Nebbiolo. This was pure, with clean ripe fruit, a soft earthy palate and lengthy finish. Here is a perfect wine to enjoy while your more expensive Nebbiolos mature in the cellar.
G.B. Burlotto is one of Piedmont’s glorious old Barolo estates. Founder Giovan Battista Burlotto made some of the most sought after wines in all the world until his death in 1927. After his death the wines faded into obscurity for decades until great-grandson Fabio Alessandria took over as wine maker a while ago. He is returning the estate to its fame as one of Piedmont’s great small producers of traditionally made Baroli. I tasted and purchased two of their wines this year and was delighted with their character, focus, purity, balance, complexity and elegance. The winery is located in Verduno, just a few miles north of Barolo.
2006 Burlotto Barolo, Verduno, $33 (375ml), Rare Wine Co.. This is the estate’s entry level Barolo and it is fantastic. The wine was marked with superb purity and balance with a long elegant finish. A wine with soul that is very affordable.
2012 Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga, Verduno, $18, Rare Wine Co.. The Pelaverga grape, native to Piedmont, is extremely rare. In fact only 6 producers in Piedmont continue to make the wine. I enjoyed it very much. The wine was marked by a light translucent hue, exhibited a peppery and spicy nose and possessed a palate similar to a Poulsard from the Jura or a Pineau d’Aunis from the Loire. Another terrific wine for the money.
G.D. Vajra is another estate in Barolo that I had for the first time in 2013. Vajra’s family run winery is not well known, but they make wines that are complex, elegant and delicate and very reasonably priced.
2008 G.D Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole $55, Martin Scott Wines. Another first for me and another old world beauty that is now on my radar. The Bricco delle Viole vineyard is located on the highest part of the commune of Barolo. Only the oldest vines are used for this wine. The wine is aged from 42 to 48 months in large Slovanian oak before being bottled. This was elegant and has the acidity and structure for years of aging potential.
2010 G.D. Vajra di Aldo Langhe Rosso, $18, Martin Scott Wines. Made from grapes that do not make it into the Baroli, this 100% Nebbiolo, from what promises to be a great vintage in Piedmont, is loaded with lots of pure harmoniously balanced fruit. The finish is quite long and elegant. A wine with great pedigree and at a fantastic price.
2009 G.D. Vajra Freisa Kyé, $36, Martin Scott Wines. The Freisa grape is also indigenous to Piedmont, but most of the producers who make the wine do not export it to the U.S. Fortunately Vajra does. While the wine is a bit lighter than Barolo and lacks the focus of Barolo, it is a very good wine. On day two, the wine absolutely exploded, suggesting a few hours of decanting before really enjoying the wine. There is plenty of acidity here to allow the wine to age for a decade or more. Readers that may be interested in trying wines made with the Freisa grape may also want to check out 2010 Cavallotto Langhe Freisa Bricco Boschis, $20, Michael Skurnik Wines. I found this to be yet another superb example of this grape from a great old world wine maker.
2004 Vallana Gattinara, $30, Michael Skurnik Wines. Simply delicious wine made from 100% Spanna that possessed a beautiful expression of fruit and soil. It was complex with terrific balance and a long elegant finish. Definitely a wine with soul.
2010 Vallana Spanna Cuvee Bernardo Vallana, $22, Michael Skurnik Wines. A new bottling in honor of the founder of Vallana, this is a blend from Nebbiolo vines in Boca and Gattinara. The wine had a gorgeous translucent light red hue and a soft and velvety palate. The wine is very young and with its wonderful acidity and more cellar time, should develop into a terrific wine. The quality to price ratio of these two wines is extraordinary.
Since 1897, Nino Negri has been the premier estate producing wine in the region from Chiavennasca, the local name for Nebbiolo. All Nino Negri wines age for at least two years before they are released to ensure optimum maturity at the time of bottling. When I first tasted this wines my initial response was Oh My God, how good is this! If you are looking for affordable and delicious wines, look no further.
2009 Nino Negri Sfursat, $45, Fredrick Wildman. An elegant DOCG wine made from 100% Chiavennasca that grow on vines from steep, nearly vertical vineyards of about 3,000 foot elevations. The Sfursat is one of the estate’s top wine and is made from grapes dried for 100 days in the cool, dry, alpine air. This winemaking style combines the opulence of Amarone with the elegant complexity of Barolo. The wine dances on the palate with gorgeous fruit, great acidity, impeccable balance and finishes with extended length and smoothness. In the vinification process, the wine rests for a short while in stainless steel and then part of the wine is put for 20 months into 80hl Slavonian oak casks, and part into 32 and 53hl French oak casks. It then ages for some months in glass before release.
2009 Nino Negri Inferno, $20, Fredrick Wildman. The wine is made from 90% Nebbiolo (Chiavennasca), Pignola and Merlot and is aged in stainless steel for two months before spending 18 months in Slovanian Oak casks. It then ages for some months in glass. While lighter in both color and body than the Sfursat, the wine had a beautiful translucent red hue, with a medium-bodied and velvety palate. It was round and delicious and a stupendous value.
France – Provence – Red
The wines of Domaine Tempier stand as the benchmark for the wines of Porvence. The cult following they have attained can be attributed to the world class Rosé, white and red wines their winemaking passion enables them to consistently produce. Their wines are delicious, age for years and represent, in my opinion, one of the finest values in the entire wine world.
2010 Tempier Bandol Rouge, $45, Kermit Lynch Imports. This gorgeous wine is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah from 40+ year-old vines from the domaine’s different vineyards. Harvesting is done by hand, fermented with natural yeast and vinified for 2 to 3 weeks in stainless steel. The wine is then aged in large oak barrels for 18 to 20 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. This was superb juice with phenomenal purity of fruit and exceptional balance. It reminded me of a great Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The domaine’s single vineyard bottlings, 2010 Tempier Bandol Rouge Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua and 2010 Tempier Bandol Rouge La Tourtine, are comprised of the same grapes as the normal bottling. Like the normal bottling both were superb with impeccable balance and pure fruit. While these can be enjoyed in their youth, they will benefit from a couple more years in the cellar and last for a couple of decades at least. $60.
France – Loire – Red
I have sung the praises of the wines of the Loire Valley ever since I began this blog. Once again in 2013 I had the good fortune to continue to discover a few winemaking geniuses. Charles Joguet ran the domaine with his name from 1957 until his retirement in 2004. During this period he made some of the finest Cabernet Franc wines in the Chinon. I was able to pick up a couple of library releases of the ’95 and '96 vintages.
1995 Charles Joguet Chinon Clos du Chene Verts, $50, Kermit Lynch Imports. Big funky barnyard bouquet upon opening with a deep earthiness on the palate. The wine began to reveal its true sense after a couple of hours as the fruit emerged with focus and finesse. The next day the funkiness blew off and the purity of its fruit shone through. The palate and finish were elegant. I would uggest decanting this for at least 6 hours before drinking.
1996 Charles Joguet Chinon les Varennes du Grand Clos, $50, Kermit Lynch Imports. Decanted for 4+ hours. A bit of barnyard funk upon opening but less so than the Clos du Chene Verts from the same vintage. Funk was replaced within 30 minutes with an enticing earthy bouquet and earthy palate. Not for everybody, but I loved it.
2004 Domaine de Nerleux Saumur Champigny Les Loups Noirs, $37. This 100% Cabernet Franc from the Saumur is an absolutely stunning wine. It had a big earthy bouquet, ripe and focused fruit on the palate with a lengthy & elegant finish.
France – Northern Rhone – Red
The most famous and historic home of the Syrah grape is in the Hermitage and Cote-Rotie vineyards of the Northern Rhone. In my opinion it is here that one gets to appreciate this grape and its elegant character. Here it produces wines of exacting harmony when made by top producers, compared to the gigantic over-extracted fruit bombs that are too often the expression of Syrah (Shiraz) from Australia and California. Jean Louis Chave is probably the most revered property in the Northern Rhone making spectacular wines from 100% Syrah. Alas, they are not all that easy to find and very, very expensive when you do. Thanks again to the importer Kermit Lynch, there are under the radar estates that do a superb job in crafting beautiful wines from the grape and at much more affordable prices.
Louis Barruol is one of these extraordinary wine makers. His wines are sophisticated, combining depth of flavor with focus and finesse.
2010 Louis Barruol Crozes Hermitage "Tiercerolles", $30, Kermit Lynch Imports. 2010 was a superb vintage in France and the Northern Rhone and this wine was a prime example of the vintage. In the glass it showed off a dark purple hue with a fantastic nose of ripe fruits and pepper. The palate echoed the nose with a fruity, peppery and balanced finesse. At $30, this is a fantastic bargain.
A bit more expensive at $70 is 2010 Louis Barruol Cote Rotie Les Roses. This is another beautiful example of a gorgeous old-world Cote-Rotie with it’s peppery, yet refined palate and a very long, elegant finish. This is still very much a baby, and will benefit from a few more years asleep in the cellar.
2011 Comte Abbatucci 2011 Ajaccio Rouge "Cuvée Faustine” ($38). Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Made from a blend of red grapes indigenous to Corsica Sciaccarellu and Nielluccio, this wine possessed a gorgeous translucent red hue, pristine fruit, balance and good acidity and finished with length and elegance. A wine with soul! In part 1 of this post I wrote how Jean-Charles Abbatucci is known to drive his tractor out to his vineyards and play traditional Corsican polyphonic songs over loudspeakers to keep his vines happy. As I said then the results speak for themselves, as this is another outrageously delicious wine from his estate.
Many of these wines can be found at 56º Wine, Bernardsville, Wine Legend, Livingston, The Pluckemin Inn Wineshop, Bedminster, The Manhattan Wine Co., Clifton and Chambers Street Wines, NYC. Wine-Searcher will also help you track them down.
As you may have noticed many of the wines in both part one and part two are imported by Kermit Lynch. Whenever I see his name as the importer on a bottle of wine I am not familiar with, I will always try it. I have yet to taste a wine from him I have not liked. A new release of his fantastic book, Adventures on the Wine Route, has recently been released. If you are interested in passionate wine making, pick up a copy.
Sunday, January 12, 2014
France – Burgundy - White
Pierre Yves Colin was the winemaker for his father's Domaine Marc Colin until 2005 before venturing out on his own to start Maison Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. He is an rising star in the Cote de Beaune, crafting delicious white Burgudy since his maiden vintage in 2006.
2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St. Aubin "La Chatenière" 1er Cru ($45). Michael Skurnik Wines. Great expression of the Chardonnay grape. Beautiful acidity, crisp and clean palate with a lengthy finish. This is a great value.
2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Montrachet les Embrazees 1er Cru ($80). Another delicious wine from this producer. Wonderful balance and purity on the palate. Layers of complexity, focus and finesse. Good acidity for this wine to last for quite some time. This is top-notch juice.
Thomas Pico is another young (mid 20’s) rising star in the region who started the tiny estate Pattes Loup (wolf’s paws) in 2005. Pico harvests everything by hand, and ferments all his wines using indigenous yeasts in old oak barrels.
2011 Pattes Loup Chablis ($35). Polaner Selections. This is a terrific Villages level Chablis, pristinely pure with impeccable balance, vitality and superb minerality. Great juice at a great price.
2011 Jean Manciat Mâcon Charnay Franclieu ($18). Louis Dressner Selections. Made in stainless steel vats, the wine exhibits a gorgeous fruity and floral aroma, while on the palate it has stunning purity, crispness and complexity. Simply delicious.
France – Jura - White
I became a fan of wines from the Jura region of France a couple of years ago. I find them full of finesse, depth and character and amongst the best wine values around. The Jura is a petite and relatively obscure wine region in eastern France, between Burgundy and the Swiss border. Its geographical isolation has helped it to remain a rare bastion of traditional winemaking techniques, and today it produces some of the most distinctive wines in the world. Reds from the Jura are often light-bodied, earthy, berried, and reminiscent of the village wines of Burgundy (though here they are made of local grapes like Poulsard and Trousseau). The whites are made from Savagnin and Chardonnay in a somewhat oxidized manner. The Savagnin has a very different taste than other white grapes and may not appeal to the casual wine drinker.
2008 Michel Gahier Arbois Chardonnay ”La Faquette ($35). Rosenthal Wine Merchants. This was a superb bottle of wine, very Jura-like with a bit of oxidation, but a clear, pure and well-balanced palate and a lingering finish.
One of my favorite white wine grapes is Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley in France. Vouvray is perhaps the best know region for the Chenin Blanc grape. It produces sensational whites from its chalky soil. About 100 miles due west from Vouvray is Savennieres where the Chenin Blanc grape grows in slate-like soils of schist and sandstone that is evident in the wines. I find them to have a steely freshness that is strikingly different from Vouvray, but wonderful to drink and enjoy.
2011 Domaine du Closel Chateau des Vaults Savennieres La Jalouise ($21). Louis Dressner Selections. This is a superb Chenin Blanc. It is a round and focused wine that evolves beautifully in the glass as you drink it. Do not drink this wine too cold, or you will miss its complexity and superb finish.
1994 Château d'Epiré Savennières Cuvée Spéciale ($45). Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. The Cuvée Spéciale is blended specifically for Kermit Lynch from the estate’s top parcel. An austere wine that has aged magnificently, it is aged in chestnut barrels, a method the estate has abandoned for its more modern wines. On the palate it displayed a sublime viscosity and perfect balance.
2011 Comte Abbatucci Ajaccio Blanc "Cuvée Faustine” ($38). Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. Made from 100% Vermentino grapes this wine possesses bracing crispness, freshness and vitality. To keep his vines happy, Jean-Charles Abbatucci is known to drive his tractor out to his vineyards and play traditional Corsican polyphonic songs over loudspeakers for their benefit. After the harvest he’ll treat his cellar to the same music as his grapes ferment and come of age. The results speak for themselves, as this is an outrageously delicious wine.
|Studio di Bianco|
About 10 miles down the road from Buttrio is the village of Cormons, home to the wine estate of Dario Raccaro. Mr. Raccaro, a former professional basketball playe, is adamant about vinification in steel for his whites in order to retain the purest expression of the fruit and the terroir.
2012 Raccaro Collio Friuliano Vigna del Rolat ($34). Jan D’Amore Wines. This is considered his top cuvee and his made from 100% Tocai Friulano grapes. Grapes are soft pressed and cold fermented at 18º C and vinified in stainless steel. 12,000 bottles are produced annually. I found the wine to be medium bodied with nice acidity, focused fruit and balance. A very good value.
2012 Raccaro Collio Malvasia ($33). Made from 100% Malvasia grapes in the same method as the Friuliano. 4,000 bottles produced. I liked this better than the Friuliano as it had more depth on the palate with excellent acidity and nice fruity finish.
2010 Inama Soave Vigneto du Lot ($26). Dalla Terra Winery Direct. This single vineyard Soave is stunning. While it sees 30% new Barrique, the oak is completely integrated into the wine. On the palate this is crisp, clean and focused with a round and delicious Finish.
For about half the price ($14) the Inama Soave Classico could well be the wine value of the year. Made completely in stainless steel, and while it does not have the depth and finesse of the du Lot, it is also round and delicious and very enjoyable to drink.
Austria/Germany - White
Riesling is another white wine grape that I am very fond of, especially those that are on the drier side. I had a few this past year that have become permanent residents of my cellar.
2003 Hirsch - Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken Kamptal Zöbinger Heiligenstein ($69). Michael Skurnik Wines. Light straw-gold hue. Palate laced with tropical fruits and lovely acidity. It also possessed a wonderful minerality and had a pleasant and savory finish. Terrific dry Riesling.
1999 Hexamer Meddersheimer Altenberg Riesling Spatlese ($55). 2001 Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Riesling Hochsgewachs ($35). Michael Skurnik Wines. Both of these were terrific. Lovely golden hue, with a fruity and moderately sweet palate. Both finished with considerable length and richness. Delicious wines.
USA - NY State - White
One of my most pleasant surprises of last year were some wonderful wines from Long Island in New York State. Christopher Tracy, winemaker at Channing Daughters located in Bridgehampton in the North Fork section of Long Island is making some remarkable wines at very reasonable prices. Of those I tried this year, I especially liked these:
2011 Channing Daughters Scuttlehole Chardonnay, ($18). Channing Daughters Winery. This was very nice, although I think it would have benefitted from a couple of years in the cellar. Nice citrus bouquet with a crisp, creamy and fresh palate and excellent acidity. It started out light-bodied, but with 30 minutes in the glass it became more full-bodied with a pleasant, if somewhat short finish. The following day both the body and finish improved a lot. A terrific glass of wine at any price, but at $18 a bottle, fantastic QPR.
2011 Channing Daughters Brick Kiln Chardonnay, ($22). What an excellent bottle of wine this is. It was reminiscent of a young top-notch Chablis from Burgundy. Sparkling crystal hue, crisp, fresh and round palate with a yummy finish. Tremendous QPR.
2006 Channing Daughters North Fork Meditazione, ($45). An “orange” wine from New York. Who’d thunk it? Certainly not I. Not only is it true, but it is also outstanding. Made from a blend of Tocai Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat Ottonel, Viognier and Malvasia Bianca, it had a terrific color and superb purity and balance on the palate with a seductive finish. I intend to buy a lot more wines from NY State this year. They are difficult to beat for both price and quality. Hermann J. Wiemer is another top producer in the NY that is worth checking out.
Stay tuned, my favorite red wine discoveries will be posted in the very near future.