At the end of June, 8 fellow Vinous members met at Satis Bistro in Jersey City for a BYOB Henri Bonneau and Chateau Rayas tasting. As Guy Fieri says on Diners, Drive-ins and Dives, it was "off the hook". The event was the idea of Canadian Vinous member Philippe who, like me, is a fanatic for these wines. Philippe also knows more about Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines than most people I know. Portions of what you will read in this post I have taken from his notes and comments. Philippe, who was vacationing in NJ with his lovely family, selected the restaurant. None of us had been there before, but I for sure will be back. It was a great choice. Satis specializes in homemade Charcuterie, Patés and eclectic Bistro fare. We enjoyed a full sampling of all of them (sorry no pics, too busy eating and savoring the wine): The food was delicious and complemented the wines beautifully.
Tuscan Pâté of Soft Chicken Liver Mousse
Duck Rilettes made from Shredded Duck Con t with Pink Peppercorn and Thyme
Clasic Country Style Pâté
Prosciutto di Parma from Parma, Italy. A Hint of Nutty Fl avor from the Parmigiano Reggiano used in the Pig’s Diet
Soppressata Picante A Coarsely Ground, Dry-cured Spicy Sausage Made with Lean Pork Meat,
Pork Fat and Delicious Spices
Saucisson Sec Dry Cured Peppery Garlic French Sausage
Chorizo Secco Dried Berkshire Pork Sausage seasoned with Smoked Paprika, Garlic and Hot Pepper
Speck Black pepper rubbed and smoked prosciutto
We began the evening with a bottle of Jacques Selosse V.O.(Version Originale) Champagne that was disgorged on April 9 2014. When I think of Champagne, Selosse is who I think of. I am enraptured by the seductive yeasty nose and palate that is a signature of his wines. Like every other wine I have had by him, the wine evolved with each sip and was completely round and delicious. It is made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Champagne communes of Avize, Cramant and Oger from three successive vintages.
We followed this with a 2007 Chateau Rayas Blanc Reserve that was spectacular and stood toe to toe with the Selosse tonight. Philippe explained that this was "a 50-50 mix Grenache Blanc and Clairette, vinified from 100% whole clusters, 30+ year old vines aged in demi-muids with malolactic not blocked and then 9 months in tank." In fact in his post on Vinous he said "...Montrachet from the Southern Rhone could well be the nickname of this wine..." There was no argument from me or the others who enjoyed the wine. The wine simply soared from the glass and danced on the palate in balance and harmony. A wine with soul!
Our first flight of reds was 2001 Rayas Réservé, 2004 Pignan Réservé and 2008 Rayas Réservé. Each of the wines are 100% Grenache (Rayas signature). In the glass they all exhibited a brilliant translucent red hue and an enticing aroma of pepper and spice. The 2001 was the most evolved of the three. It displayed wonderful depth and balance. The '04 Pignan was great with it's vibrant fruit and impeccable balance. The '08 Rayas was the surprise as the night. Not considered a very good vintage, the wine was the consensus WOTN. The peppery bouquet was really present here and echoed beautifully on the soft and elegant palate. The wine is still in its youth and based on the pedigree in the glass this is destined to be a great wine. When I think about it though, there is really no surprise here. Great producers are capable of producing great wines even in off vintages.
Tuscan Pâté of Soft Chicken Liver Mousse
Duck Rilettes made from Shredded Duck Con t with Pink Peppercorn and Thyme
Clasic Country Style Pâté
Prosciutto di Parma from Parma, Italy. A Hint of Nutty Fl avor from the Parmigiano Reggiano used in the Pig’s Diet
Soppressata Picante A Coarsely Ground, Dry-cured Spicy Sausage Made with Lean Pork Meat,
Pork Fat and Delicious Spices
Saucisson Sec Dry Cured Peppery Garlic French Sausage
Chorizo Secco Dried Berkshire Pork Sausage seasoned with Smoked Paprika, Garlic and Hot Pepper
Speck Black pepper rubbed and smoked prosciutto
We began the evening with a bottle of Jacques Selosse V.O.(Version Originale) Champagne that was disgorged on April 9 2014. When I think of Champagne, Selosse is who I think of. I am enraptured by the seductive yeasty nose and palate that is a signature of his wines. Like every other wine I have had by him, the wine evolved with each sip and was completely round and delicious. It is made from 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Champagne communes of Avize, Cramant and Oger from three successive vintages.
We followed this with a 2007 Chateau Rayas Blanc Reserve that was spectacular and stood toe to toe with the Selosse tonight. Philippe explained that this was "a 50-50 mix Grenache Blanc and Clairette, vinified from 100% whole clusters, 30+ year old vines aged in demi-muids with malolactic not blocked and then 9 months in tank." In fact in his post on Vinous he said "...Montrachet from the Southern Rhone could well be the nickname of this wine..." There was no argument from me or the others who enjoyed the wine. The wine simply soared from the glass and danced on the palate in balance and harmony. A wine with soul!Our first flight of reds was 2001 Rayas Réservé, 2004 Pignan Réservé and 2008 Rayas Réservé. Each of the wines are 100% Grenache (Rayas signature). In the glass they all exhibited a brilliant translucent red hue and an enticing aroma of pepper and spice. The 2001 was the most evolved of the three. It displayed wonderful depth and balance. The '04 Pignan was great with it's vibrant fruit and impeccable balance. The '08 Rayas was the surprise as the night. Not considered a very good vintage, the wine was the consensus WOTN. The peppery bouquet was really present here and echoed beautifully on the soft and elegant palate. The wine is still in its youth and based on the pedigree in the glass this is destined to be a great wine. When I think about it though, there is really no surprise here. Great producers are capable of producing great wines even in off vintages.
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| 2001 Rayas 2004 Pignan 2008 Rayas |
We then moved to the wines of Henri Bonneau beginning with the Rouliers NV. This wine is made from a vineyard worked by his son in the Gard (west of Chateauneuf on the western side of the Rhone River). The wine shows all the hallmareks of a great Chateauneuf with astonishing freshness, depth and complexity. According to Philippe the wine contains some declassified wines from Bonneau's main CDP estate barrels. Classified as a basic wine, it shows a wonderful earthy nose and peppery palate with nice fruit and balance.
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| Celestains, left to right: '01; '04; '07; '09 |
We finished this magnificent evening with Quintarelli's Bianco Amabile del Cere Bandito from the '86 and '90 vintages. This very rare dessert wine is a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano and Saorin that have been attacked by noble rot like Sauternes. Quintarelli has only released it a few times in his lifetime. It is only made in great vintages and is then "banished" as the name "Bandito" suggests. The wine is marked by a seamless balance of tannins, acidity and sweetness. A profound wine for sure as both of these attested to. I have enjoyed the '90 on multiple occasions, but this was my first taste of the '86. Wow! This was more evolved and displayed a bit more depth than the '90, which was no slouch. In my opinion, Amiable is the greatest sweet wine one can buy.
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| 1986 Amabile 1990 Amabile |
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