Lunch with Franco Conterno

My friend Tony befriended Franco Conterno of Aldo Conterno wines on a trip to Italy a few years back.  They have become close friends and each year when Franco comes to the U.S. to show his wines at the NY Wine Experience, Tony invites him and a few of his friends over to his house for lunch on Saturday.  Every one brings a bottle of wine with the stipulation that the wine cannot be Barolo as Franco prefers to drink Burgundy and other wines when travelling.  Tony’s wife Fran and his mother, Elisabetta, prepared a spectacular meal for us to go along with a great selections of wines.

Food

Assorted antipasti of homemade sausages, soppressata, roasted artichoke hearts, Italian cheeses and olives.

Homemade Pasta Al Forno.  A spectacular dish that mamma Elisabetta makes from scratch.  It consists of handmade mini rigatoni-like pasta mixed with baby meatballs, artichoke hearts and cheese and baked in the oven.  Of course there was also traditional gravy meats of sausage and meatballs served after the pasta. Fantstic!

The pasta course was followed by fork tender Sliced Filet Mignon served with mashed potatoes, asparagus au gratin, string beans almandine and salad.  Of course there was a bevy of excellent desserts from lunch attendee Pasquale, owner of Sorrento Bakery.

Wine

We began the lunch with 2008 Vazart-Coquart Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Special Club Brut.  This grower Champagne is made from 100% Chardonnay.  It possessed a terrific yeasty nose and palate, with amazing depth and finesse.  Like all great champagnes, it got better as it warmed a bit in the glass.   It was brought by Ben from importer Massonais who imports Conterno wines.  Ben explained that the "Club"cuvée is a tribute to the "Club Trésor of Champagne," an association of independent wine growers who are constantly striving for excellence. Vazart-Coquart is a house of growers that has worked their vineyards in Chouilly since 1785.

1985 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Magnum.  A wine that I have had on numerous occasions and continues to drink beautifully.  Big earthy bouquet and impeccable balance and a long, delicious finish.  

1990 Dujac Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru.  A prodigious Burgundy with the bouquet edging out the palate by a hair.  The wine showed finesse and complexity on the palate, but I felt the finish was a bit short.

2006 Eduardo Vaentini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  This wine is beginning to enter its drinking window.  A tad tight, the underlying pedigree is apparent and this should blossom in a couple of more years.

2008 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino.  Not my kind of wine, ultra modern and not for me.  The wine is overpowered by oak.  I was in the minority on this as the rest loved it.

1996 Clos de Tart Grand Cru. This was my third bottle of this wine in the past 30 days and while the others was good, this one soared from the glass.  The wine showed impeccable balance, complexity, depth and finesse.  Consensus WOTN by the group.

2007 Clos de Tart Grand Cru.  A couple of steps behind the 1996, but a beautiful glass of wine that has a bright future.

1965 Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Selección.  This dessert wine is made from 100% Pedro Ximénez grapes.  Dark brown in color and viscous on the palate it is like drinking liquid figs.  

2001 Château Rieussec Sauternes.  From the great 2001 vintage, it displayed layers of tropical fruit.  Like most Sauternes however, I found the finish to be medicinal.

After lunch we adjourned to the outdoor porch where the group enjoyed 2008 Cohiba cigars brought by George.  I gave up smoking a while ago and thus passed on the cigars but did enjoy the conversation.  It was a great day all around.  Thanks Tony, Fran and mamma Elisabetta for including me.

Saluté