About this Blog

The blog focuses on the essence of wine and food, not how many points or stars it receives. The opinions are mine and should be taken only as that, an opinion not gospel.

Like many collectors, initially I was very much influenced by wine ratings. I purchased wines based on points, even if I had never tasted the wine. And it was much worse than that. I would drink a wine with a high rating, not like it, yet since it was highly rated I’d rationalize that I did not yet appreciate the wine, or that my palate was not sophisticated enough to understand the wine. How’s that for lunacy? As a result my cellar grew in all directions while my palate narrowed. By the time I realized the style of wine that I enjoyed, my cellar abounded with wines whose styles I did not enjoy. All of these wines were very highly rated, just not my cup of tea, or glass of wine to be more accurate. Fortunately I was able to sell many of these wines to those who either enjoyed them or wanted highly rated wines. Don’t misunderstand, I am not against wines with high ratings, in fact I own many. It is just that I now purchase wines based on the producer, the style and my palate, not the rating. Nor do I shun reading reviews. I very much respect Antonio Galloni, Alan Meadows, Eric Asimov and John Gilman and read their reviews routinely. I pay attention to what they write, not the points they award.

Sunday, May 20, 2018

1976 & 1979 Red Burgundy


Our local wine group met last week at Sette Cucina Italiana in Bernardsville, NJ.  I have lauded the food chef/owner Allan Russo sends forth from his kitchen many times before.  He did another outstanding job, treating us to a trio of perfectly cooked and sauced pastas proceeded by appetizers of Bruschetta and Antipasto.

Orecchiette w/ Broccoli Rabe & Breadcrumbs
Penne w/ Zucchini & Eggplant

Cavatappi w/ Veal Ragu

Jeff, our Burgundy expert, was in the wine queue and he chose red Burgundies for the 1976 and 1979 vintages.  I am unfamiliar with both of these vintages as well as most of the producers he brought that night.  From what I have read, "the prolonged hot weather of 1976 produced tannic, highly concentrated wines.  The drought-like conditions of summer resulted in good ripening in the Pinots, but the quality of the Chardonnay suffered in comparison.  Many of the vines were stressed by the drought and the tannins never fully ripened. This resulted in over-balanced wines with a structure that dominated the fruit, especially in the Côte de Nuits. The Côte de Beaunes are better. At the top levels there is still much enjoyment to be had.

1979 produced a large crop of fast-maturing and fruity wines.  A cold, damp winter, followed by a cool spring, which lasted well into May, resulted in a delayed but successful flowering. Although summer, on the whole, was temperate, hailstorms in the middle of July wreaked havoc with the crop in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny. The rest of Burgundy escaped unscathed, and the end of September saw a successful harvest".


We began the evening with 2010 Hubert Lamy St. Aubin Clos de Meix Premier Cru.  Fresh fruit with nice acidity but a bit of oak distracted the finesse of the wine in my opinion.  According to the notes Jeff provided, Olivier Lamy, who has been running the vineyard since 1996, has begun to reduce the amount of new oak and has introduced demi-muids (300-600 lt barrels) which has helped to improve the wines and resulted in a greater propensity for them to age.


1976 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre Chambertin.  This wine has seen its better days.

1976 Felix Ravinet Clos de la Roche.  A bit more life to this, but not much better than the previous wine.


1976 Domaine Henri Richard Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru.  Much, much better than the previous two wines.  Fruit was very much alive and the wine showed nice balance and a bit of complexity.

1976 Maison Louis Latour Corton Bressandes Grand Cru.  Emil and I detected a slight cork to this bottle.  The others did not.

1979 Bouchard Pere & Fils Nuits St. Georges Les Perrieres Premier Cru.  While I felt this wine was in decline there was enough fruit and balance to give a sense of how good a wine it was a decade or so ago.

The estate is one of my favorites in Burgundy.  It was founded in 1731 in Beaune by Michel Bouchard, and it is one of the oldest wine estates in Burgundy, perpetuating tradition for over 280 years and 9 generations. Over time, by acquiring various terroirs with great care and patience, Bouchard Père & Fils has built up the biggest domaine in the Côte d’Or.  Today the estate boasts 130 hectares of vines, of which 12 are classed Grand Cru and 74 classed as Premier Cru. Each parcel has its own specificities due to its situation on the slope, its exposure and the nature of the soil. At Bouchard Père & Fils, each of the Beaune "crus" deserve to be vinified separately in order to fully express its personnality: fleshy, elegant, powerful, racy, brisk...

After bottling, the ageing period commences. The Château’s cellars, also nearly 10 metres below ground, offer perfect conditions for ageing Bouchard Père & Fils’ wines.

The final two wines of the night, from Maison Leroy, were clearly the top two wines of the evening.  While I had never tasted her red wines, her reputation is well known for making fantastic wines.  Importer Martines Wines says of Madame and the estate,

“No name enlivens and ignites a discussion of Burgundy as quickly as Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy. She is unrelenting in every way, from her personality to how she runs her business to the quality of the wine in the bottle. The Leroy family’s 50% ownership of Domaine Romanée- Conti gave Lalou ample ability to amass the deepest and most revered cellar in Burgundy during the past six decades. Speculation is rampant about its size and holdings; only one person knows for sure. Today, Lalou is the force behind three domaines: Maison Leroy, Domaine Leroy and Domaine d’Auvenay.

The story of the Leroy family’s dominance in the wine world began more than a century ago, in 1868, when François Leroy founded Maison Leroy in Auxey-Duresses, a small village near Meursault. When Lalou’s father, Henri, joined the family business in 1919, the firm was already established as one of the greatest in Burgundy. Lalou joined her father in 1955, taking over the house in 1971.


Maison Leroy is the heart of the Leroy empire, a négociant house through which Lalou purchases and distributes wines from most appellations in Burgundy. With her legendary palate and relentless standards, she unearths some of the most thrilling wines of each vintage, then ages or finishes the wines herself, only releasing them to the market when she knows they are at their peak. Lalou never fails to impress with her unparalleled depth and understanding of the most hidden corners of Burgundy’s terroir.”


1976 Maison Leroy Pommard Villages.  This was very much alive and after 20 minutes in the glass the funky bouquet vanished and was replaced with a rich Burgundian nose.  The palate was soft and elegant and was echoed in the finish as well.

1979 Maison Leroy Pommard Les Vignots Villages. Easily the WOTN.  This was the essence of Burgundy, elegant, round, delicious and a lengthy finish.  Each sip was better than the previous one.

A final note, her wines are not easy to come by and quite expensive.

Thanks Jeff for yet another excellent Burgundy lesson.




Saluté



Sunday, April 29, 2018

Soldera Tasting

Our local wine group met this past Monday evening. It was my turn to bring the wine and select the venue.  I chose Rare, The Steakhouse in Little Falls, NJ as the venue.  For the wine I decided on a Brunello di Montalcino tasting featuring the wines of Gianfranco Soldera.  All wines were given a 3 hour slo-o at home before being transported to the restaurant.

In my humble opinion there is no better producer of Brunello di Montalcino than Gianfranco Soldera.  His wine is the essence of traditionally made, unadulterated wine.  I had the pleasure of meeting Soldera at his Case Basse estate in 2008 and was completely captivated by the man’s passion and convictions. He firmly believes that high quality production requires a complex ecosystem that constitutes an ideal habitat for natural cultivation.  Thus the Case Basse estate pays attention to preserving the stonewalls where birds, small mammals and insects nest and reproduce.  For the same purpose, he creates artificial sanctuaries to attract animals in the hope that they become permanent residents, and also establishes beehives.  What does this have to do with wine?  Well when you taste his wine you will know.  It is pure, round and delicious, a pure product of the grape, soil and climate.

Wine Cellar
Loose stone walls
The cellar itself is highly individual. He commissioned from architect Stefano Lambardi a cellar that was far more in keeping with his vision…a building that would be harmonious in its proportions, as natural as possible, and harmonious in its surroundings. Lambardi has described it as "a kind of grotto [made] using only natural materials, stone and iron." It was dug 46ft (14m) deep and given a stone floor. The walls are metal cages some 3ft (1m) deep, filled with loose stones, beyond which there is a 15.75in (40cm) space in which air can circulate and rise to the surface, then the soil. Soldera wanted to avoid concrete, which he believes has it own smell and does not "breathe" in the way that he wanted the whole building to breathe. The humidity is a fairly constant 85 percent, and the temperature 55.4°F (13°C).

Soldera, and his wife Graziella, an avid botanist who tends to 1500 varieties of roses at the estate, first discovered the then-abandoned Case Basse property in the early 1970s. They set about restoring the estate to full function, following a strict and intriguing philosophy of “enlightened agriculture” to create a singular Brunello of the utmost quality.

He limits his production to 15,000 bottles a year. The wines spend six years or more in large, very old, neutral oak casks with minimal rackings.  Sodera’s wines, always expensive, have become even more so recently, the result of a former disgruntled employee who destroyed 60,000 liters of wine in 2012 from vintages 2007 through 2012.

At a Soldera dinner I attended last year, he spoke about how his bottling techniques and cork quality obviate the need to store his bottles on their side, as is usual for all wines that are aging. He says, “stand them up”.  I have followed his advice.  Who am I do challenge a master.

The food at Rare was a perfect complement to the wines.  Selections that we enjoyed included Lamb Chops; Sirloin Steak; Porterhouse Steak and Lobster Fra Diavolo.

Flight One

1995 Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Intistieti.  The wine is a stunning example of Sangiovese made by a master, displayiing impeccable balance and harmony on a complex and velvety palate. Spectacular and delicious, it is a wine with soul!. No doubt of sense of place with Soldera. A beautiful expression of what wine can be when the winemaker does not interfere with what the climate and vineyard has given him. There are few words to describe this wine except to steal some words from importer Terry Theise from his book Reading between the Wines, “this is a wine in which…the spirit of celebration lives”.  My wine of the night.

More information on Intistieti and Casa Basse distinctions can be found here http://www.italianwinemerchantstore.com/investing/landmark_wines/soldera_brunello_intistieti.html

2002 Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.  2002 was a very difficult vintage in Montalcino.  In fact Gianfranco did not want to pick the grapes, but his wife insisted, so along with her sister, they selected the grapes.  Only 6,000 bottles were made.   The wine turned out to be Gianfranco’s son’s favorite vintage.  The wine, while lighter than the other bottles we drank, had a beautifully freshness on the palate and silky finish.  Proof once again that when a great winemaker chooses to make wine in an off vintage, the results are usually very good.

Flight Two

2003 Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.  A better year than 2002, but nothing to get excited about.  Soldera, however, once again made a superb wine, showing impeccable balance, lush fruit, focus, finesse and a very long and elegant finish.

2004 Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.  2004 was an exceptional vintage and Soldera made an exceptional wine. Antonio Galloni, founder of Vinous says of the wine, “...might be the single most elegant wine ever made at the estate. Silky tannins, soaring aromatics and finely sculpted fruit elevate the 2004 into the realm of the truly sublime.”   I could not agree more with his comments. This was elegance in the glass.  The wine soared with each sip and finished with great length.  It was my runner up to the 1995 as the WOTN.

Flight Three

2005 Soldera Case Basse Pegasos Toscana IGT.  The 2005 Pegasos is not a new wine, per se, but rather a barrel of 2005 Brunello-designated juice that Soldera thought was ready to bottle and drink sooner rather than later, but not up to the qualitative standards of his top Brunello labels. The wine displayed a gorgeous clear red hue reminiscent of a Pinot Noir from Burgundy. A light bodied wine with an extremely pure and balanced palate.  In my opinion it is an amazing wine for a “declassified Brunello”, albeit a bit pricey.

2005 Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva.  An average vintage, and again Soldera made a terrific wine that I have enjoyed 3 or 4 times before.  Unfortunately, tonight’s bottle was not a good one.

My good friend Gino, who I invited as a guest to the dinner, brought a 2008 Marco de Bartoli Passito di Pantelleria "Bukkuram" for dessert.  Made at the de Bartoli property on the island of Pantelleria in the Strait of Sicily, it is fashioned from 100% Zibbibo grapes. Half of the grapes are dried in the sun for three weeks on special racks within an area delimited by black stone walls. The remaining grapes are left to mature and partially dry out on the plants. These are picked and vinified; when the fermentation is well advanced, the dried raisins are added to the wine and left to macerate for three months. The wine is aged for 30 months in 225l French oak barrels, then 6 months in steel vats.

The wine has a deep amber color with a palate of raisins and honey that was delicious and the perfect end to a perfect evening.


Saluté

Monday, April 23, 2018

Polish Easter Dinner

Good health, family and friends are the stuff of a good life.  When you mix in good food and great wine, well you my friend are “living large”.  Carol, her brother and I were invited to our best friends’ Gene and Maureen’s house for dinner last Sunday.  Since they are of Polish descent, he decided to prepare a Polish Easter dinner.  Their son Gino, who is in the wine business, was there with his girlfriend Mary Jo who joined in the festivities.  As you can imagine there was plenty of great wine to be had.

Gene greeted us with an array of delicious Spanish and French cheeses along with the famous Spanish Ham, Patanegra (Black Hoof) Jamon from Joselito.  Aged a minimum 2-1/2 years this ham is only produced from 100% purebred Ibérico pigs that are fed a daily diet of acorns.  Gino, who visits Spain annually, always manages to find a way to sneak some out of the country as it is not available in the United States.



We enjoyed an excellent bottle of 2001 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d’Abruzzo with the appetizers. This was a beautiful white wine that is drinking at its peak.  The wine begins with an enticing bouquet of fruit and flowers and exhibits a beautiful golden hue in the glass.  On the palate the fruit, acidity and minerality are in perfect harmony.  The finish is clean and lengthy.

Emidio Pepe is a great believer that Mother Nature is the best care-giver for the vines, thus the grapes are grown organically, hand-harvested, hand destemmed, naturally fermented and aged 18-24 months in glass-lined tanks. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, without added SO2, and aged in their cellar, in bottle (usually for about 10 years) for continued development. Before release, the wines are decanted by hand into new bottles, and then labeled. An extensive stock of older vintages is kept at the cellar.

Dinner began with homemade cabbage soup in which in which gnocchi like potato dumplings floated.  As a cabbage lover, this was fabulous and I readily devoured every delicious drop.


The soup was followed by family style servings of Pirogi, Kielbasa and Stuffed Cabbage.  The Pirogi, stuffed with potato and cheese, were purchased locally and served in a sauce of butter, onions and crumbled bacon.  Gene cooked them perfectly and the sauce was a beautiful complement to the delicious dumplings.  I don’t eat a lot of Pirogi, but I can easily say that these were the best I have ever eaten.


Gene purchases his Kielbasa from an authentic German butcher, Schwind’s, in Rockaway.  Since it is already smoked, he simply boiled it to bring it up to temperature before slicing and serving. Tender, perfectly spiced, it was simply delicious.


Maureen not only gets credit for the stuffed cabbage, but high acclaim as well.  Tender cabbage with a moist meat stuffing in a savory tomato sauce.  One word…outstanding!



I brought along a 1976 Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Gran Reserva, which we pared, with a 1988 Gaja Sperss Barolo from Gino’s cellar. I am not a fan of the more modern style of Gaja wines today, but his traditionally made wines of the past are superb, as was this. In 1988, Gaja acquired a vineyard in one of Serralunga’s best areas and named it “Sperss” –  Piedmontese for nostalgia. This was the first year he made Sperss and the wine contained no Barbera (today’s vintages do).  It was round and delicious with a silky, elegant palate and lengthy finish.

The LdH was incredible, and edged out the Gaja in my opinion.  The wine exhibited a gorgeous translucent red hue (no browning at all), enticing earthy bouquet with impeccable balance and a monster finish.  The wine evolved with each sip.  A wine with soul.

Next Gino opened a 2000 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste.  My last bottle of this amazing wine was 5+ years ago.  My notes then apply today. “Extraordinary bottle of wine than drank beautifully upon opening and as you might expect after 45 minutes in a decanter the wine soared from the glass.  Classic earthy bouquet of Piedmont.  The wine had great depth with multiple layers of complexity as it evolved with great length.  Round and delicious.  A wine with soul.”

We didn’t notice it until the bottle was opened, but it had been signed by Giuseppe Rinaldi at the lower left side of the front label.  While that didn’t change the wine, it most likely would have added to its value.

Since we ran out of wine, Gino went to the cellar and brought out a bottle of 2001 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne.  Sandrone’s largest production Barolo, made from a blend of fruit from four vineyards, Vignane (Barolo), Merli (Novello), Conterni & Ceretta  (Monforte d’Alba).  This started off great, with vibrant fruit and terrific depth and that signature Sandrone elegance.  After being open thirty minutes however, the wine went completely flat and never seemed to recover.

With coffee and desert, Gino opened a half bottle of 2001 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes.  This was an exceptional vintage for d’Yquem and this wine is aging beautifully. Apricots, peaches and vanilla on the nose with a lovely tropical fruit palate. 

We capped the evening with a snifter of Carlos 1 Spanish brandy.  A perfect ending to a perfect meal.  


Thanks Gene and Maureen for a great meal and Gino for some amazing wines.

Saluté



Thursday, April 12, 2018

1998 Barolo & Barbaresco Retrospective

Our NY Vinous Nebbiolo group met a couple of weeks ago at Ai Fiori Ristorante in Manhattan to do a 20-year retrospective of Barolo and Barbaresco from the 1998 vintage.  For this dinner we invited Vinous wine writer Ian D’Agata to join us.  Ian is a respected wine writer and his book “Native Wine Grapes of Italy” was named 2015 Louis Roederer International Wine Awards Book of the Year.  All welcomed his presence and comments.

This was my first visit to Ai Fiori, but not my first experience with restaurants owned by noted chef Michael White.  The food, like my experiences at Marea, Osteria Morini and Ristorante Morini was terrific.  We were given a private room and given two choices for each course.  I selected:




Polipo - octpus allapiastra, sepia, tomato ragu toasted bread, basil.  Fork tender Octopus in a harmonious sauce of tomato and sepia.



Tortelli – ricotta & mascarpone ravioli, sottocenere cheese, red wine glaze.  These handmade and perfectly cooked pasta pillows threw a party in my mouth.  Another dish in perfect balance.


Vitello – amish vial chop “au four”, root vegetable, blanquette.  Simply magnificent.  These dishes complemented the wine beautifully, making this one hell of a dinner.


Before getting to the Barolo & Barbaresco, we started the evening with a bottle of 2010 Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d’Avize. Chemins d'Avize is a blend of fruit from the Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny lieux-dits. Disgorged in June 2016. The wine was vinified and aged in oak barrels of various sizes and bottled with 2 grams of dosage (some form of sweetness (sugar, or wine and sugar) added to a Champagne to balance it out). Winemaker Pierre Larmandier uses only indigenous yeasts for alcoholic fermentations, producing the most natural and terroir-specific wine possible. Each cru is vinified separately. This was terrific beginning to the evening.  I loved the yeasty bouquet and full, round and yeasty palate.

Flight 1
Barbaresco & Nieve.  The 4 wines that made up this flight were simply awesome.  It was without question the best flight of wines I have ever had the pleasure of tasting.

1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili.  Gorgeous Piedmont bouquet filled my nose in anticipation of what I was about to taste.  I was not let down.  This is classic Giacosa.  Round and delicious with an elegant and lengthy finish.

1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà.  A bit bigger and earthier than the Asili, but round and delicious as well.  Like the Asili it kept evolving in the glass and had finished with great length.

Ken, who knows more about Giacosa and Nebbiolo than anyone I know, provided some interesting information on these two wines.  He explained that while Giacosa labeled one Asili and the other Rabaja, when the vineyard boundaries were made official, both parcels were classified as Asili. Thus we tasted two wines from different plots in the same vineyard, made by the same great winemaker, in the same way.  Check out Ken’s blog The Fine Wine Geek for an in depth look at Giacosa and his wines.

1998 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva and 1998 Roagna Barbaresco Crichet Paje were my wines of the night.  They were simply magnificent.  Impeccable balance, complexity and depth with an soft, elegant palate and finished with the same elegance.

Flight 2
Barolo & La Morra.  This was an interesting flight of 3 wines with varying degrees of modern wine making.

1998 Vietti Barolo Brunate.  This drank beautifully.  The wine had a soft, elegant palate with a lengthy finish.  I was surprised to learn (from Eric’s notes) that wine maker Luca Curado did a bit of experimentation with the vintage and that the wine is considered to be modern-styled.  You could have fooled me.

1998 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis. Sandrone is considered a more modern styled wine maker, but it would be unfair to characterize him as a modernist.  His wines are always gorgeous, exhibiting depth, balance, complexity and finesse.  Unfortunately these characteristics fell short in tonight's wine.  It drank ok, but was outdistanced by the Vietti.  

1998 Paolo Scavino Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva. My least favorite in this flight.  Oak was well integrated, but present.  His wines are just too modern for me.

Flight 3
Monforte.  I did not like this flight at all.

1998 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia.  While I have enjoyed this wine on many occasions, tonight was not one of them.  The bottle was off.  I was particularly disappointed in that I sold the bottle from my cellar to Michael Z and it was pretty much a disaster.

1998 Domenico Clerico Ciabot Mentin Ginestra.  Much too modern for me.  Oak was dominant.


Flight 4
Serralunga.  Another good flight, with the Falletto starring.

1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia.  Terrific bottle of wine.  Silky palate and elegant finish.

1998 Vieti Barolo Lazzarito.  Like the Granbussia, this was an off bottle.

1998 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto.  Classic Giacosa.  Simply gorgeous, and one of the top wines of the evening.  Great mouth feel and lengthy and elegant finish.

1998 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva.  Fantastic potential here.  It drank very well, but is still very much a baby and needs more cellar time, in my opinion.

The bottom line is that 1998 is an excellent vintage and will drink well for quite some time.  The only downside is that the price of these wines has escalated in the past decade, so finding them at a reasonable price will be a challenge.  I only wish I had bought more of them years back.

We finished the evening with a cheese course of Caprotto  - Chiriboga Blue – housemade crackers, quince paste.  I brought along a bottle of 1998 Quintarelli Amarone to drink pair with the cheese.  Unfortunately the magic of Quintarelli was not to be found in this bottle. The palate was dull and the finish nonexistent.

Please check out Eric Guido's blog on the evening at The Cellar Table.  

All in all it was a magical evening.

Photo courtesy of Eric Guido

Saluté


Sunday, March 25, 2018

1996 Louis Jadot Red Burgundy

A Toute Heure was the venue for our local wine group’s most recent dinner.  Located in Cranford, NJ this farm to table restaurant recently changed ownership.  Thankfully the food is still very skillfully prepared.  Some of the dishes we enjoyed included:

A salad of roasted baby candy cane beets, goat cheese, candied pecans, baby greens, balsamic drizzle 

Tuna Tartare, honey soy drizzle, candy cane beets, black radish, spiced panko crumbs

Txistorra: sautéed chorizo & shrimp, fingerling potatoes, mushrooms, jalapeno garlic-herb pan jus

Charred Iberian octopus, garlic oil, broccoli rabe, beet chips, toasted pumpkin seeds, smoked paprika

Adobo marinated half amish chicken, baby beets, beet tops, turnips, red bliss potato, parsnip jus

Five hour braised (Nieman ranch) short rib, roasted seasonal vegetable potato gratin, braising liquid

The Florio Mussel Pot - crushed tomato, torn basil, garlic confit, white wine

The ATH Mussel Pot- spicy chorizo sausage, saffron cream sauce

Copious amounts of house made French Fries

Howard was in the wine queue and he selected 1996 red burgundies (Cote de Nuits) from Louis Jadot.  Says wine critic Antonio Galloni of the vintage, “This vintage featured a rare combination of healthy grape sugars, high acidity and sound, ripe skins, thanks in large part to a very even flowering, well-timed late August rain and a very dry and sunny but cool September. While '96s made from copious yields can be lean and unsatisfying, even tart, the best examples are evolving at a snail's pace and benefit from decanting.”  With the exception of one corked bottle, the wines we drank tonight showed well.

Louis Jadot is one of Burgundy's most important négociants, both qualitatively and quantitatively, with a portfolio that covers everything from inexpensive Bourgogne and Beaujolais wines to several grand cru wines, from the Côte de Beaune to Chablis. Unsurprisingly, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay feature heavily in the portfolio.

The estate was founded in Beaune in 1859 by Louis Jadot.  The headquarters remains in Beaune, although vineyard holdings have increased exponentially. Louis Jadot owns land in some of Burgundy's most famous vineyards, including Le Musigny, Échezeaux, Chapelle-Chambertin and in the famously fragmented Clos de Vougeot vineyard. Louis Jadot wines are also made in Chambertin, Montrachet, Corton and Romanée-Saint-Vivant.

As well as the sizeable portfolio of wines made under the Louis Jadot label itself, the house also makes wines for Domaine du Duc de Magenta, and for Domaine Gagey. Andre Gagey took over as general manager for Louis Jadot in 1968 and, along with winemaker Jacques Lardiere, is often held responsible for Louis Jadot's high reputation.

Maison Louis Jadot created its own cooperage, Cadus, in 1995.  Cadus aims to work only with oak from the very best forests in France, and the wood is seasoned outside for 30 months before it is used to create Burgundian Barrels (which each contain 228 litres of wine).  The amount of time the wine spends in barrel depends on a number of variables, there is no recipe: it may be a year, fifteen months or even eighteen. They don't like to rush things.

All harvesting is done by hand to ensure that only the best grapes are used in the wines. By and large, complete destemming is practiced. They favor long macerations in oak or stainless steel, and the use of wild yeasts for alcoholic fermentation. Malo-lactic fermentation takes place slowly, towards the end of winter, in oak barrels.

In order to achieve the best possible quality for the past 20 years Jadot has banished all use of synthetic products (fertilizers, herbicides, etc.) in their vineyards have taken up traditional practices instead. All work is done either by tractor or, for the most inaccessible vineyards, by horse.
All the wines made under the Maison Louis Jadot label are Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée wines from across the region. Maison Louis Jadot controls today 210 hectares scattered across Burgundy, from the Côte d'Or to the Mâconnais and down into Beaujolais.

1996 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru.  Translucent red hue with a bit of bricking at the edges.  Lovely bouquet of cherries.  Medium bodied palate and short finish.

1996 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jaques 1er Cru. Corked

1995 Louis Jadot Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Boucherottes Domaine des Héritiers 1er Cru. Since the previous wine was corked, Jeff grabbed this bottle from his car to replace it.  Earthy bouquet and soft palate but not a very exciting wine.

1996 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru. This was very good and drank very nicely.  Soft and round palate with a lengthy finish.

1996 Louis Jadot Echezeaux Grand Cru. This was also very good.  Most structured wine of the evening with good acidity and a long and pleasant finish.

1996 Louis Jadot Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru. Consensus wine of the evening.  The wine was full-bodied with terrific structure, balance, complexity and a lasting finish.  What is interesting is that according to wine critic John Gilman it was not made by the domaine, but was mad with purchased wine.



Thanks Howard for an excellent selection of wines and food.  Very happy to be part of this wonderful group.

Saluté

Thursday, March 22, 2018

2008 Barolo Dinner


On the last Tuesday evening of February our NY Vinous Nebbiolo lovers group met to do a 10-year retrospective of 2008 Baolo.  Like all tastings with this group it was a spectacular night with some really good wines, and a couple that were less so.  Danny Meyer’s North End Grill provided us with a private room for the evening.  The food was excellent and the service was top notch. Crispy Pork Belly, Wood Grilled Duck Breast and Steak Frittes were the popular choices for most of the group.  The Pork Belly & Duck were lauded, the Steak Frittes was not.  I went a different route and was very happy with my selections.

Steamed Mussels
Spinach Ravioli, Parmesan Broth & Hedgehog Mushrooms

2008 was an exceptional vintage in Barolo.  Antonio Galloni of Vinous stated “…The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.”  For more detailed information about the vintage check out Eric Guido’s blog The Cellar Table.

All wines were double decanted in the morning and left to slow-o throughout the day before being transported to the restaurant.  Wines were served blind, with the exception of the second flight.  I am not a proponent of blind tasting.  I fail to see its value.  Some claim that blind tasting removes the prejudice one may have about the wine if they know what it is.  I don’t buy that at all.  If I know the wine and the producer, then I have a reference point and an expectation level about the wine. I can evaluate where the vintage is relative to other vintages of the wine.  For me wine is about enjoying what you are drinking not guessing what the wine is, who made it or the year.  Just my opinion.

My top three were Bartolo Mascarello, Sandrone and Cascina Francia.  I must admit, I was also smitten by the Gaja.

Flight 1 (La Morra)

2008 Angelo Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Conteisa.  Contesia is Piedmontese for "quarrel." This wine was named for the historic dispute between the communes of La Morra and Barolo for possession of the Cerequio land.  Since Gaja adds Barbera (approximately 5 to 8%), Italian Barolo and Barbaresco laws do not allow him to call it Barolo (or Barbaresco) since it is not 100% Nebbiolo. I must admit to being pleasantly surprised when this wine was revealed, as Gaja’s more modern style is usually not to my liking.  This drank very well however.  The palate was soft and balanced and finished nicely.  Because of the Gaja name the wine commands a high price (not worth it in my opinion).  $215

2008 G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole Barolo. One of the top wines of the evening.  This was firing on all cylinders, round and delicious palate, elegant finish and has the stuff to age for a few decades.  In my opinion it is clearly one of the wines of the vintage. At $90 it is one of the most reasonably priced wines around.

2008 Accomasso Rochette Barolo. This bottle was flawed.

Flight 2 (Barolo).

Most, if not all of us, thought this was the flight of the evening.  It was also the only flight that was not served blind.

2008 Giuseppe Rinaldi Cannubi San Lorenzo Ravera Barolo. What a beautiful wine that is entering its drinking window with silk and elegance.  Terrific texture, balance and complexity with a lasting finish.  This will drink well for a couple of decades at least.  $175.

2008 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis Barolo. Although Sandrone makes his wines in a more modern style, the result is always fabulous as this bottle was tonight.  The wine began with an intoxicating earthy bouquet and coated the palate in beautiful fresh fruit and finished with length and elegance.  I am sorry that I have none my cellar, something I hope to rectify soon.  $150.

2008 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo. The wine of the night, in my opinion, in fact it may well be the wine of the vintage.  Round, delicious, elegant, balanced, etc, etc, etc.  Built to last for decades, but who can wait.  This wine was $100 upon release and has soared to $320 a bottle currently.

2008 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate Le Coste Barolo. The tightest wine in the flight but the underlying pedigree is apparent.  I would hold this for a couple more years before drinking.  Also another example of the soaring prices of great Barolo.  I paid $107/btl upon release.  Today it will set you back $500/btl.

Flight 3 (Castiglione Falletto)

2008 Cavallotto Riserva Vignolo Barolo. Cavallotto is a rock-solid producer of traditionally made Barolo.  Tonight’s wine drank very well, but was not as awake as the top wines.  Cellar time will be kind to the wine.  $120.

2008 Brovia Rocche Barolo.  Unfortunately this was a flawed bottle.  $95.

2008 Vietti Rocche Barolo.  There seemed to be not a lot going on here.  I expected more depth and balance, but the wine just seemed to be happy sitting in the glass.  $190.

Flight 4 

We had two bottles of the Cascina Francia, as I mistakenly pulled one from my cellar by mistake. It turned out to be a bit of a blessing as the other bottle turned out to be flawed.

2008 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo. Cascina Francia has always been one of my favorite Barolo’s and tonight’s wine was singing. It started with an enticing earthy bouquet on the nose, with a beautifully structured palate marked by soft tannins.  It got better with each sip and finished with length and elegance.   One of my wines of the night.  $180

2008 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo.  Flawed bottle.

2008 Elio Grasso Casa Matè Barolo. Classic old world Barolo.  Earthy bouquet, medium bodied with a soft elegant finish.  This is aging nice nicely.  A lot more depth than the bottle I had 3 years ago.  $85.

Photo Courtesy of Eric Guido


Additional notes on the tasting can be found by following the link to Eric Guido’s blog The Cellar Table mentioned in the second paragraph above.

Bottom line, I am lucky to be a member of this illustrious Barolo group.  Another great night.

Michael, Jonathan, Anthony, Marc, Iggy, Mark, Ken, Michael, Ben, Jamie
Photo Courtesy of Eric Guido

Saluté



Saturday, March 3, 2018

The Glories of White Burgundy

Our local wine group met recently at Wabi Sabi in Bloomfield, NJ.  I have praised the Japanese food and Sushi prepared by chef/owner Nelson Yip on previous occasions and for good reason…he never disappoints.  Emil, who’s turn it was to bring the wine and choose the venue decided he wanted to do an evening of white Burgundy and thought that Nelson’s food would be a perfect complement…and it was.  Emil did a masterful job with his selections, and we were most fortunate that there was not a hint of premature oxidation in any of the wines we drank.

Food

While the other group members had not been to Wabi Sabi before, they applauded each and every dish.  Marc, a frequenter of NYC restaurants commented to the effect “I’m getting flavors very reminiscent of Nobu”.

Nelson Yip is the finest Asian/French fusion chef I have ever encountered.  The secrets to his success are quite simple; great mentors in both French and Asian cuisine, a fanaticism for fresh ingredients and an unbridled passion for transforming ingredients into simple and at the same time spectacular dishes. He is so fanatical about the quality of his sushi, that he receives 3 shipments of fresh fish from Japan weekly.  There simply is no comparison to the quality and freshness of his sushi and sashimi to most other Japanese restaurants in the area...at least in my opinion.  I would be remiss if I did not mention that the service here is equal to the food.  Some of the dishes we enjoyed were:


Seared Salmon w/ Yuzu Soya.  This is as addictive a dish as any I have ever encountered. Pristinely fresh salmon is pan seared for a few seconds and then lightly dressed with a high quality light soy sauce to which Yuzu (yellowish citrus fruit with fragrant, acidic juice) has been added.


Hamachi Yuzu with Summer Truffle.  Yuzu makes another appearance as it delicately coats mouth-watering fresh Yellowtail.  Watercress and summer truffles complete the dish.  The freshness of the fish and subtlety of the flavors make this as addictive as the Seared Salmon.


"Lollypop" Shrimp.  Here Nelson fashions a large wild shrimp into a circle, adds a bit of crab meat to the center and then encrusts it with Panko bread crumbs, skewers each one with a stick and then fries them.  The resulting "lollypop" is crunchy and greaseless and served with a lightly spiced dipping sauce made from chilis, tomatoes, onions and parsley.  In combination, the sauce and shrimp throw a party in your mouth.


Berkshire Pork Goyoza.  Nelson takes the pan-fried dumplings to new heights in this preparation. The incredibly light dumpling wrappers are made in house and stuffed with a minced pork stuffing made from wild boar. Lightly pan-fried, they are delicious and a far cry from the thick and doughy versions found at most other spots.  I never asked what he makes the dipping sauce with, but it is the perfect foil for these heavenly pillows of pleasure.



Fluke Sashimi.  This is without question my all time favorite when it comes to raw fish. Unfortunately it is a too infrequent special at Wabi Sabi.  It is one of the fishes he gets directly from Japan.  Preparation is the essence of simplicity.  The Fluke is sliced transparently thin and served with a bit of equally thinly sliced Daikon radish.  A bit of soy with a hint of wasabi added will bring tears of joy to your eyes with each piece you eat.


Wabi Sabi Chicken.  Nelson’s version of General Tso Chicken will open your eyes as to how good this dish can be.  He only uses white meat which he soaks in ice water overnight before doing his magic in the Wok.  The chicken is cooked to a moist and greaseless perfection that will have you applauding the dish with your chopsticks.


Hot Stone Angus Steak.  Premium Aged Angus beef is slightly seared in the kitchen and served tableside with a hot lava stone that allows you to cook the beef to your perfection.  It is served with another of his incredible dipping sauces.


Duck Confit with Mushroom Risotto.  I am not a fan of duck, so I have not tried this French classic.  Everyone who has ever ordered it ususally reorders it on subsequent visits.  I can however attest to the creamy and al dente risotto that accompanies the duck.


And of course there is a wide selection of  the freshest Sushi and Sashimi one can find this side of Japan or New York City.

Not pictured (they were devoured as soon as they made an appearance) is the Fried Spicy Rock Shrimp appetizer.  Nelson actually doesn’t use Rock Shrimp, but medium sized shrimp that he appears to flash fry and then coat with a spicy mayonnaise based sauce.  It is one of the best shrimp dishes I have ever had, and I have had it as a main course on occasion.

Wine

I mentioned earlier that Emil did a masterful job with his selections and that was probably and understatement as the wines were simply glorious.  When white Burgundy is on, it is very hard to beat, especially from winemakers like Emil chose.

2012 Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre Villages.  A legendary estate that produces legendary wines that are not easy to come by and expensive when you can find them. Dominique Lafon took over from his father in 1984. The domaine earned organic certification in 1995 and biodynamic certification in 1998. The team at Domaine des Comtes Lafon limits yields by de-budding vines in the spring. The harvest is all done by hand, and the grapes are sorted twice—once in the vineyards and again at the winery. Their vines average 32 years of age.

Traditional, natural fermentations are the hallmark of the domaine. Native yeasts, slow fermentations and long élévages allow the wines to express the complexity and nuance of each terroir. The Chardonnays are pressed gently and undergo a cool settling of the must for 24 hours before the juice is racked into both new and lightly-used oak barrels. Alcoholic fermentations last for three months, kept at a cool 22 to 24°C in their underground cellars. The whites are generally stirred on their lees, depending on the cuvee, and then undergo malolactic fermentation, which ends in May following the harvest. The whites are bottled unfiltered 18 to 22 months after the harvest.  Sublimely silky and complex, the wines of Domaine des Comtes Lafon are a marvelous glimpse into the diversity of Burgundy’s terroirs.

2012 was an exceptional Vintage for white Burgunday.  It is also the very first vintage that the Clos de la Baronne has been bottled as a single parcel.  This debut bottling is sourced from the 2.7ha Clos de la Baronne, a monopole that includes 40-year-old vines.  Oh what a wine, especially when one realizes this is a Villages level wine and not a premier cru or grand cru.  It is simply stunning, displaying exceptional balance, finesse, complexity and a lengthy and magnificent finish.  I sipped it slowly throughout the dinner an each sip seemed to add depth and elegance to the wine.  It is a wine that will last for decades to come.

2012 Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru.   Dauvissat is one of Chablis' great traditionalists, making Chablis reminiscent of Raveneau. Owner/winemaker Vincent Dauvissat prefers natural farming, using vine treatments sparingly, if at all. The fruit is harvested by hand and not destemmed; fermentation is part in enameled steel vats and part in wood, and all aging is in 6-to-8-year-old barrels.  Vincent says, "Oak is very important to Chablis. The synergy of air and wood adds character and also helps soften the wine. Without oak, Chablis is too hard, too austere."

Tonight’s wine was classy, but definitely at the beginning of its drinking window.  Give the oak a couple of years to become better integrated and this promises to be awesome wine.

2008 Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre Premier Cru. Domaine Raveneau, along with Domaine Dauvissat, is one of the two leading stars in Chablis.  They continue to craft beautiful, and highly sought after wines seemingly almost every vintage.  They are hard to come by and prices have soared in recent years. Brothers Bernard and Jean-Marie Raveneau are now in charge of 7.5 ha, where the philosophy in the vineyards is one of lutte raisonné (the practice of reactive, rather than proactive vine treatments, and largely natural farming). The harvest is 100% manual, after which the fruit is immediately pressed and given a 12 hour débourbage (settling) and the fermentation is initiated in large fermenters with or without selected yeasts, depending on the vintage. The malos are allowed to occur naturally and the élevage occurs in older casks (mostly small feuillettes or half barrels, which in Chablis equals 132 liters) and lasts for 12 months. There is no deliberate cold stabilization as the winter cold is all that is used. After approximately 18 months, the wines are usually fined, filtered and bottled.

François Raveneau established the domaine in 1948 by combining vineyards that he had purchased with vineyards owned by the family of his wife, who was part of the Dauvissat wine family.  François was the first member of his family to bottle his own wine; previously the grapes had been sold to other estates to use.   No new oak barrels are used to make the wines. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and then aged in barrels with an average age of seven to eight years, for twelve to eighteen months.

Raveneau owns sections of three Chablis Grand cru vineyards. These holdings are 0.54 hectares in Les Clos, 0.60 hectares in Blanchots and 0.75 hectares in Valmur.  They also own land within six Chablis Premier cru vineyards. The largest holding is Montée de Tonnerre, with 3.20 hectares, followed by Butteaux with 1.50 hectares. The other four are Foret with 0.60 hectares, Vaillons with 0.50 hectares, Montsmains with 0.35 hectares and Chapelot with 0.30 hectares.  There is also a newly acquired 0.95 hectare parcel of village classified Chablis, on the opposite side of the Vaillons slope. The first vintage from this plot was harvested in 2007.

2008 was another outstanding vintage. Tonight’s wine was elegance and finesse in a glass. It was beautifully balanced on the palate with a lengthy and soft finish.  Like the wines of Dauvissat, they will age gracefully.

2007 Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru.  From a very good vintage, this is a superb Chablis.  Each sip displayed beautiful acidity on a stoney palate with lots of depth and a lengthy finish. Allen Meadows of Burghound calls it “One of the wines of the vintage.” 

2002 Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot. One of the greatest white wines I have ever had. This was the first Raveneau I ever tasted (Sept. 2009).  It mesmerized me then and it did so again tonight. 2002 was an outstanding vintage, and this surely is one of the wines of the vintage.  I will reiterate my notes of 9 years ago when I tasted the wine. The wine displays an amazing purity.  It sparkles like a fine gem in the glass.  Incredible balance of minerality and acidity.  Silky on the palate with a lengthy and pure finish.  The wine has the stuff to last for quite some time.  Along with the Lafon, this was my wine of the night.

2013 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault 1er Cru Les Porusots.  This was Emil’s back-up wine in the event of a flawed bottle.  Fortunately none were flawed.  Since we finished all the wines, Emil popped it so that we could have a glass with Nelson, who like the rest of us is a lover of fine wine.  The wine is owned by the de Montille family.  The wine is quite young, but showed great potential given a few years of cellar time.

As you can imagine it was an “over the top” evening of great wine and great food.  It will be a hard tasting to top.  Thanks Emil for your generosity and great selections.  And thank you Nelson for the incredible food.  Until next time.



Saluté