Chateauneuf-du-Pape

It was the summer of 1970 when, as a young sailor in the United States Navy, I tasted my first Chateauneuf-du-Pape while on a 3-day pass to Paris (I knew very little of wine back then. Lancer’s, Mateus, and Gallo Hearty Burgundy not only fit my budget, but tasted good to me). Along with two shipmates, we settled into our seats in an outdoor café on the Champs-Elysées for lunch and to do what most Parisians do on a gorgeous day, “regarder les dames” (watch the ladies). It was a magical moment for me that I remember clearly to this day.  I ordered a Hot Dog Fromage (melted cheese) served on fresh French bread with a side of Pomme Frites. The waiter suggested a bottle of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (no idea of the producer) at $0.90 for the bottle.  He explained that the name meant “New House of the Pope”.  At that price, under these conditions and a name like that, we said “bring it on”.  Wow was it good!  It was unquestionably the best wine I ever had at that point in my life.  I'll never forgot it and have been a fan of Chateauneuf-du-Pape ever since.

At our monthly wine group dinner a couple of weeks ago Howard brought along 5 CdPs with some age on them to pair with the exquisite cuisine at Culin Ariane in Montclair.  Both Howard and Ariane brought huge smiles to our faces with the wine and the food.

2003 Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape  Cuvee Reserve.  A good choice to begin the evening with, the wine had a pleasant earthy bouquet with a nice clean, peppery balanced palate.  A blend of mostly Grenache (80%) the estate follows traditional wine making methods and consistently produces age worthy wines.  $65.  Wine Searcher.

1998 Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier Chateauneuf-du-Pape.  Many people, myself included, feel that along with Chateau Rayas, the estate of Henri Bonneau makes the finest Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the world. This is old world winemaking to the nth degree. All his wines are made of 90% Grenache, with the balance being  Mourvèdre, Syrah, Counoise and Vaccarese.  Not one barrel of what he produces will see the inside of a bottle before its fifth birthday. It will then be sold under one of three names – “Celestin”, “Marie Burrier”, or just plain “Châteauneuf-du-Pape”. “Which name?” is a question he often struggles for the entire five years, sometimes longer.  This bottle, the Cuvée Marie is his 2nd level Chateauneuf-du-Pape and is thus the juice from the vintage that does not meet his standards for his flagship Cuvée des Celestains. In my opinion, with the exception of Rayas, it is better than the flagship bottlings of other CdP producers.  This bottle was gorgeous.  The bouquet intoxicated the nose and the palate savored the balance and complexity of the fruit.  While this was bottle number two of the night, I nursed this wine throughout the dinner and revelled as it just kept evolving with each sip.  Production of these wines is small, so finding them is difficult.  About $200.

1998 Domaine de la Mordoree Chateauneuf du Pape  Cuvee de la Reine des Bois.  Made mostly from Grenache (80%) with Mouvedre, Syrah, Counoise and Vaccarese making up the rest of the blend, this drank beautifully with glorious fruit and a light peppery palate.  It finished with finesse and elegance.  The average age of the vines here is 60 years old.  $225.  Wine Searcher.

1989 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape.  From the great 1989 vintage this is a wine I have enjoyed on many occasions in past years.  Tonight’s bottle however, never seemed to open up. While it was pleasant enough to drink, the fruit was muted as opposed to its usual vibrancy and the finish was the shortest of the 5 bottles we drank. $200.  New York Wine Warehouse.

2001 Henri Bonneau Cuvée des Celestains.  I remember reading on a website a while back, “ …if the question is posed as to what is the quintessential Châteauneuf du Pape at the highest quality level, the answer can only be Henri Bonneau’s Réserve des Célestins.”  You will get no argument from me on this.  I have had the 2001 on many occasions and have been completely blown away by it as I was again tonight.  It is simply one of the greatest wines I have ever had. The wine has such a sense of grace, poise and finesse that there is little more to say other than it is round and delicious.  Truly a wine with soul!  Difficult to find and pricey, but worth every cent. New York Wine Warehouse.

My ranking of the wines this evening:

2001 Henri Bonneau Cuvée des Celestains
1998 Henri Bonneau Cuvée Marie Beurrier Chateauneuf-du-Pape
1998 Domaine de la Mordoree Chateauneuf du Pape  Cuvee de la Reine des Bois
2006 Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape  Cuvee Reserve
1989 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape

I would be remiss if I did not add that once again we had a superb meal at Culin Ariane.  One of Ariane's signature dishes is her Cornmeal Crusted Oysters with Horseradish Cream and Micro Greens.  If I have eaten one of them, I have eaten a few hundred over the years.  The barely cooked briny oyster rests in a delicate Cornmeal Crust which sits atop an impeccably balanced Horseradish Cram.  Pop it in your mouth and the flavors and textures provide for a culinary orgasmic explosion .  The Micro Greens are more than just a garnish, as they add a refreshing component that brings it all together.


As I have had the oysters hundred’s of times, I opted tonight for the salad special of the evening that included Tempura Battered Rock Shrimp.  Here again textures and flavors rang in harmony like the words and music of Cole Porter song. I think that harmony on the plate is what makes Ariane such an extraordinary chef.

Seared Filet of Beef with Caramelized Onions and Jalapeño Cheddar Tater Tots, Spinach and Veal Jus (sorry photo blurred) was the entrée choice for 4 of us. What can I say that I have not said above?  Delicious and a perfect match to the wines.

Coriander Cured Venison with Butternut Squash, King Oyster Mushroom Cranberry Compote and Black Garlic Butter was the other selection and received rave reviews from Howard.

In addition to the superb cuisine and A+++ service, Ariane’s husband Michael provides wine service par excellence.   For a BYOB restaurant the stemware, decanters and overall wine service far surpasses many restaurants with wine lists.  Thus it is no mystery why are group dines here frequently.

Saluté

Super Bowl XLVIII

Once again family and friends gathered at our house to watch the Super Bowl, chow down and drink some good wines.  While the game was for the most part pretty boring, the food, wine and camaraderie made for a wonderful time.  Fortunately Mother Nature held off one of her many winter storms of this very cold winter for all to enjoy the day and return home safely.

The menu included traditional (for this party anyway) items, with a couple of new and outstanding additions.

Traditional Plates

Meatball Sliders – my contribution.  I serve these on small, fresh and scrumptious party rolls from Nicolo’s Bakery in Montclair.

Pulled Pork Sliders – my good friend Gene has mastered this dish. Also served on Nicola’s party rolls, the pork is tender and full of flavor (his secret ingredient is root beer) and he serves it with two incredible sauces, North Carolina Sauce (a cider vinegar based sauce made mostly from the juices) and Texas Sauce (pork juice renderings and a tomato based sauce, like a homemade barbeque sauce with a chili pepper jolt.)

Nancy’s Italian Wedding Soup – Boy is this good.  So good in fact that it was the first item to be finished by the guests (can we get more next year, please).  Everyone asks for her recipe, so here it is.

1 lb. ground beef

2 eggs

1/3 cup Panko bread crumbs

3 Tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese

3 quarts of chicken broth

3 cups of baby spinach (Nancy uses bok choy, greens only)

1 cup diced carrots

1 cup diced yellow onion

1 cup diced celery

1 cup Orzo pasta

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper

Sauté (diced) carrots, onion, and celery in oil until soft and starting to brown.

While vegetables are cooking prepare the meatballs.  Mix beef, eggs, bread crumbs, cheese, salt and pepper in a bowl. Form into 1/2" meatballs. I use a melon baller for this.

Lightly oil a baking sheet and cook meatballs in a 375 oven for 12-15 minutes. 12 minutes usually does it.

Add the spinach to the vegetables and let it wilt.

Add the chicken stock to vegetables.

Heat the stock on high heat and add the pasta and the cooked meatballs.

Boil for 5 minutes and season with salt and pepper.

Sausage & Peppers – A must at a party like this, and Rosann and John can always be counted on to please all with this Italian classic.

Mixed Arugula Salad – George’s simple, refreshing and delicious salad helps to cleanse our palates and prepare us for the desserts that come at halftime. 

Italian Pastries from Vaniero’s Bakery in NYC – Compliments of our NYC friends Peter and Amelia.  While I am not a big dessert eater, I look forward to these every year, especially the delectable and decadent Napoleon.

Outstanding New Additions

When Gino asked what he could bring, I said "how about some cheese and paté."  Bring it he did…in spades!  Venison Paté; Wild Boar Paté; Pork & Chicken Liver Mousse with Truffles; Mousse Truffée (chicken & turkey livers & mushrooms).  Hard to pick a favorite here as all were delicious, and hard to stop eating. 

Photo compliments of Impressive Impressions

Malgaiola (sheep & cow’s milk); Torregio (cow’s milk cheese from Lombardy); Robiola (cow, sheep and goat’s milk cheese).  Three great cheeses from Italy.

Photo compliments of Impressive Impressions

In addition to these he brought along a piece of the famous Spanish Ham, Patanegra (Black Hoof) Jamon from Joselito the most famous and revered producer of this amazing ham in the world.  Aged a minimum 2-½ years, this ham is only produced from 100% purebred Ibérico pigs that are fed a daily diet of acorns.  Sliced like prosciutto and served on a warm platter, each sliver of ham literally melts in your mouth.  The ham has no peer. It is also the most expensive ham there is, usually costing upwards of $200 a pound.  It was acclaimed by all as the “dish of the day!”

Web Photo

Crab Cakes – David and Lynn were first timers at the party.  Both share my passion for wine, food and cooking.  The Crab Cakes David made (on site) were, as Guy Fieri would say “Out-Of-Bounds”.  What else can I say, they were delicious and received accolades from all.

Photo compliments of Impressive Impressions

Gamberi Fra Diavolo – Cosmo can always be counted on for a superb dish.  Today he made a Shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce.  Cooked to perfection, they were scrumptious. Sorry no photo available.

Rice Pudding – Along with the sausage and peppers, John whipped up a batch of his signature Rice Pudding.  A huge crowd pleaser.  Sorry no photo available.

The Wines

We always drink well at this party and today was no exception.

2012 Opella Pinot Grigio.  One of the wines Gino is branding and importing, this was crisp and delicious with a focused palate and nice finish.  At $15, a terrific bargain at Wine Legend, Sunrise Shop-Rite of Caldwell and Sunrise Shop-Rite of Westfield.

NV Renardat-Fache Bugey Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale Rosé Magnum.  If it seems like I serve this fantastic sparkling wine a lot you are right.  The wine is a huge hit, especially with the women.  Crisp, fruity, low alcohol (7.5%) it is hard to stop drinking.  We went through 3 magnums today.  $22. 56º Wine.

2005 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape Magnum.  Opened, but not decanted 3 hours prior.  Deep red color, spicy bouquet and palate.  Nicely balanced with the high alcohol (15+%) well integrated.  More modern than traditional, a very nice CdP.  Wine-Searcher.

2002 Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso del Bepi Magnum.  Decanted for 4+ hours.  Rosso del Bepi is only made in vintages when Giuseppe feels that the grapes do not meet his strict standards to be labeled Amarone. Thus he declassifies the wine and calls it Rosso di Bepi. It is in fact his Amarone at ½ the price.  It possessed a spectacular earthy bouquet that energized the senses to what you were about to drink.  Rich, balanced and pure on the palate, it is a great expression of the genius of Quintarelli.  Wine Searcher.

We went through the above red wines pretty quickly so I opened 3 bottles of 1999 Quintarelli Valpolicella and a bottle of 2004 Quintarelli Valpolicella that Emil brought with him.  As good as the Bepi was these two “lesser” (???) wines were sensational.  Both were classic Quintarelli. The same spectacular earthy bouquet of the Bepi was present here.  On the palate however, the fruit was much brighter yielding a lush, ripe and balanced palate.  Both finished with great length and finesse.   Wine Searcher.

We finished with a 1977 Grahams Vintage Port that was sensational.  The bouquet tantalized the senses and on the palate was rich and luxurious and finished with amazing length.  Wine Searcher.

Photo compliments of Impressive Impressions

My thanks to all who came and made this yet another great party.

Saluté