Tuscany in the City

On April 26, 2014 I attended Antonio Galloni’s Tuscany in the City wine tasting and dinner at Del Posto Ristorante in NYC.  My good friend Emil and I attended the tasting and then our wives joined us for the dinner.  As all of the events Antonio puts on through his Vinous Media, it was a wonderful event.  The format for the tasting had the 15 producers who participated in the event on an elevated platform where each talked about their estate and the wine we were tasting while they spoke.  The wines were poured by some of NYC’s top sommeliers.  The temperature of the wines was perfect, thus maximizing the tasting experience.

Janet, Emil & Mark at tasting

The first seven wines were Sangiovese or Sangiovese based.  Sangiovese gets its name from the Latin sanguis Jovis, "the blood of Jove".  Sangiovese wines are earthy and fruity.   It is used to produce Chianti Classico, Rosso di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montepulciano among others.

The wines we tasted were young, and thus a bit tight due to their youth.  Most of the wines showed great pedigree and promise and will reward the drinker for a few years of patience whilst they mature.


2010 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo DOCG - Giovanni Manetti – What a way to start a tasting.  Truly one of the great Chianti makers in all of Tuscany.  The 2010 vintage has great depth and this wine demonstrated that today.  Chianti Classico must contain a minimum of 80% Sangiovese by law.  This vintage contains 95%, with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon making up the balance.  The first sip shows off the wine’s finesse and pedigree. There is impeccable balance here, ripe fruit, albeit a bit light at the present time, good acidity and elegance. Tannins are still evident.  I really enjoyed this wine and thought it was amongst the best drinking wines of the day.  I would cellar this for another 3 to 4 years before drinking.  The grapes are hand harvested from 30 years old vines and then fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts for at least 3 weeks.  Aging takes place in Troncais and Allier barrels, 50% new, for 24 months. $86.  Wine-Searcher.

2010 Fattoria di Fèlsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia DOCG – Giuseppe Mazzocolin – This was perhaps the tightest and most tannic of the wines today, but like the Fontodi there is great pedigree here and a fantastic Chianti in the making.  I kept going back to the wine during the tasting and it began to open and resonate more fruit with each sip.  Patience will be rewarded here.  I would put this away for at least another 5 years.  The Rancia vineyard, once a Benedictine monastery, produces the estates flagship wine.  Felsina grows 100% Sangiovese grapes at their estate.  Meticulous attention is paid to grape selection at the de-stemming stage. Malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, after which the wine is transfered to first or second use, 225-liter French oak barrels for 16-18 months.  The wine is further bottle-aged another 6-8 months.  $44.  Wine-Searcher.  

2008 Castell'in Villa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG – Princess Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa – This was a new wine producer for me. The wine is made of 100% Sangiovese grapes entirely from the estate’s best vineyards. The wine is blended and aged in oak for 2-3 years.  While there was ample ripe fruit, I found the wine to be medium-bodied, tight, tannic and harsh on the palate.  When I came back to the wine about an hour later, it had softened and opened up considerably.  Castell’in Villa was one of the first producers in Chianti to remove Canaiolo from the blend and bottle 100% Sangiovese.  All of the wines are produced from estate grown fruit. Coralia is dedicated to producing traditionally styled; high quality wines, from low yielding vineyards, and releases older vintages only when they are showing their best. $45. Wine-Searcher.

2010 Isole e Olena Cepparello – Paolo De Marchi – Probably more than any winemaker in Tuscany, Paolo De Marchi is credited with elevating the status of the wines in the Chianti Classico region. Cepparello, named after a small seasonal stream among the vineyards, was introduced in 1980, prior to a change in DOC regulations that allowed for a one hundred percent Sangiovese; thus, it effectively served as a pioneer of the pure Sangiovese movement. De Marchi sets himself apart by offering one of the finest Chianti Classicos on the market.  The wine is a selection of the estates best fruit. It is aged for 18 to 20 months in French oak 1/3 of which is new, and 2/3 of which is used.  The wine is aged for another 12 months in bottle before release.  Only 1200 cases are produced.  The wine we tasted today was simply gorgeous.  It exhibited pure and balanced fruit, soft tannins, finesse and danced elegantly on the palate.  This is a round and delicious wine, with tons of soul.  $71.  Wine-Searcher.

2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo – Luca Martini di Cigala – Made from 100% estate grown Sangiovese grapes, especially selected bunch per bunch, from from vineyards whose soil dates predominately to the Pliocene epoch (that’s a long time). Fermentation with natural yeasts and maceration take place in enameled cement vats and last up to 35 days. The wine is then aged in French oak barriques for 20-22 months, bottled unfiltered and held in bottle for another 18 months before being released.  The wine we drank had a compelling earthy boquet, soft tannins, wonderful vibrant fruit, good acidity for aging, excellent balance and complexity.  The oak from the Barrique was very well integrated and the wine had a very nice finish.  Give this 3 to 4 years in the cellar for the wine to mature.  San Giusto a Rentennano, a name of Etruscan origin, overlooks the upper course of the Arbia River in the farthest south Chianti Classico wine zone.  The estate began life as a medieval monastery of Cistercian nuns and was called San Giusto alle Monache (“of the Nuns”).  $102. Wine-Searcher.

2010 Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione – Jurij Fiore - Made from 100% estate grown Sangiovese.  This showed very well today, beginning with an enticing rocky and fruity bouquet.    On the palate it was rich and powerful, yet elegant.  This too evolved in the glass during the tasting lending a look into the bright future this wine has.  For now, a few years in the cellar are needed.   The grapes, some from vines more than 75 years old, are rare clonal examples of the famous “Sangiovese di Lamole” varietal in the Chianti Classico area. They are fermented in Stainless Steel for 12 days.  They are then aged for 14 months in 350 liter oak Tonneux barrels.  The wine then spends 9 months in bottle before being released.  $60.  Wine-Searcher.

2010 Podere Forte Petrucci – Cristian Cattaneo – Made from 100% Sangiovese, this wine had a lovely translucent hue, good acidity and was nicely balanced.   Despite the relatively high alcohol level (15%) the wine displayed a lovely feminine elegance on the palate and finish.  I would suggest a few more years of cellar aging to give it more time to fully open. The wine is vinified in French oak vats and then aged in French Barrique barrels of 225 and 1500 litres for 16 months. The wine then is further aged in the bottle for 15 months before being released for sale.  The wine does not appear to be available in the US.  $71


2010 Antinori Tignanello – Marchese Piero Antinori – Probably one of the most famous and popular of the Super Tuscan wines.  I have never been a big fan of Super Tuscan wines.  I find them to be Italy’s answer to California wines that are made according to the Robert Parker formula for high points; deep dark color, over-extratction of fruit and high alcohol content. The 2010 vintage is a blend of 80% Sangiovesse, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. While this wine did not have the pronounced oak/vanilla palate usually indicative of this wine, I found it to be shallow and lacking finesse.  It was however, if it is your thing, a very powerful and macho wine.   At $97 a bottle, it is in my opinion one of the most overpriced wines on the market.  Wine-Searcher.


2009 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco – Maurizia Di Napoli – I have never been a big fan of this Super Tuscan wine as I find it quite a bit more modern in style, probably due to the use of Barrique in the aging process.  I also am not a big fan of Cabernet Sauvignon of which this is 90% with Sangiovese and Merlot each making up an additional 5%. The Sangiovese is aged 18 months in Slavonian oak and the Cabernet and Merlot in barriques. The wine is then blended and bottle refined for eight months. Today’s tasting did little to change my opinion of the wine. While this particular bottle had nice acidity for aging it lacked depth and finesse.  $86.  Wine-Searcher.


2010 Agricola Querciabella Camartina – Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni.  A more modern styled wine that is aged in Barrique, 80% of which is new.  The oak from the new wood is however very well integrated yielding a fruity and elegant palate with soft tannins.  Camartina is only made in high quality vintages and is a blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Sangiovese.  The vineyards are located throughout Tuscany’s Chianti Classico and Maremma areas and have been Biodynamic since 1988.  Grapes are destemmed, not crushed, and then placed in temperature controlled stainless steel vats.  The best parcels go into concrete vats.  While still a few years from maturity, I found the wine to have an enticing bouquet and a lively and fruity palate.  There is very good pedigree here.  $110.  Wine-Searcher.  



2010 Castello di Ama L'Apparita – Marco Pallanti.   This estate is considered to be one of the finest in the Chianti Classico region.  One sip of this wine gave me no reason to dispute that claim.  As the wine sat in the glass and began to seductively evolve I became an immediate fan.  While the winemaking methods seem to lean a bit towards the more modern style, on the palate it resonated of a great, traditionally made wine.   The wine, first made in 1985, is crafted from 100% Merlot grapes that come from small parcels in the L’Apparita vineyard.  The grapes are destemmed and then pressed before being fermented in stainless steel tanks, after which they are aged in 50% new Barrique and 50% once Barrique for 18 months.  Today’s wine had a gorgeous nose and on the palate was round and delicious, displaying a seamless integration of finesse, depth and complexity.  This wine is a good 5 years away from really showing its stuff.   My only negative is that a price tag close to $200 a bottle is, in my opinion, much too high for this wine.  Wine-Searcher.

2010 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia – Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta - The first Super Tuscan wine, it debuted in 1968.  The premise behind Super Tuscan wines is to bring Bordeaux to Tuscany, by crafting wines with the grape varieties used to make Bordeaux wines.  The wine quickly attained cult status and as a result it sells for around $200 a bottle. In my opinion they are not worth the hefty price tag.  However if you like massive fruit forward wines, with pronounced oak, tannins and vanilla and that receive high scores, it may well be for you. Today’s wine did not change my mind.  The 2010 is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine was aged in French oak barriques (40% new) for 24 months, then refined for 6 months in bottle before release. It was my least favorite of the tasting.  Sassicaia’s success prompted the Italian government to grant the wine its own appellation, Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC, beginning with the 1994 vintage. $192.  Wine-Searcher.

2010 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso – Cinzia Merli – Another of the more famous estates in Bolgheri, one of Italy's most prestigious vineyard areas. Its winemaking zone is made up of sloping coastal vineyards at the foot of the hills between the town of Bolgheri, after which this DOC is named, and the southern part of Castagneto. Located in close proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea, it has been described as 'the golden oasis of the Maremma' (an area of south-western Tuscany and northern Lazio).  It is the home of the Super Tuscans. The varieties that put Bolgheri on the wine map are the Bordeaux trio Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Syrah, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot are also used.  Le Macchiole focuses on Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah.  The 2010 Paleo is 100% Cabernet Franc.  The wine had excellent depth, balance, finesse and lively fruit.   For a wine that sees 75% new oak, the oak was very well integrated.  I am a huge fan of Cabernet Franc, and while I enjoyed this wine very much I find that it lacked the elegance that one finds in Cab Franc wines from the Chinon and Saumur in France’s Loire Valley.  A couple years patience will be rewarded here.  $84.  Wine-Searcher.


2010 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Ornellaia – Leonardo Raspini – Another Super Tuscan cult wine that is made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot and aged in 70% new and 30% once-used Barrique for 18 months. The wine sees another year in the bottle before release. Never one of my favorite wines, this was very modern, overpowered by the oak and lacked depth and elegance. This is a cult wine you must pay dearly for, north of $200 in most instances, which is crazy in my opinion.  Wine-Searcher.


2011 Tenuta di Trinoro Tenuta di Trinoro – Andrea Franchetti – Located in Siena, Andrea Franchetti is another of the cult Super Tuscan wine producers.  The estate grows Bordeaux varietals, in lieu of Sangiovese, at high elevations (500-700m) on the slopes of Mount Aniata.  The 2011 vintage is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot and came in at a whopping 15.5% alcohol.   As usual his production is very small and only 500 cases of this were made. The wine spent 5-6 months in 100% new oak barrels and then racked into cement, where they finished aging.   I found the wine to have nice fresh fruit, good balance, a bit too much oak and a very rich palate.  Antonio Galloni suggests serving the wine on the cool side, which will help keep the alcohols from being too aggressive.   The wine will benefit from a couple of years in the cellar.   As one might expect this cult wine is very expensive.  $195.  Wine-Searcher.  Mr. Franchetti is also the owner of the Passopisciaro estate in Catania, Sicily, which produces one of my favorite Chardonnay’s, Guradiola which is widely available at $35 - $40.

In the evening our wives joined us for the gala winemakers dinner.  It was quite an affair.  The food was outstanding at the dinner that was preceded by a Champagne reception at which 2004 Taittinger Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne and Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne NV Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules were poured.  Unfortunately I missed the Bouchard, but the Taittinger was delicious.

Food

Antipasto : Crostini with Olive Tapenade & Tuscan Ceci

Primi: Pasta Wild Boar Ravioli followed by Gigli Verdi al Ragu Bolognese

Secondo: Delmonico Steak with Charred Spring Onions, Parmigiano Puffs and Tomato Raisins

Formaggio: Aged Tuscan Pecorino.

We were seated with Marco Pallanti, owner and winemaker at Castello di Ama.  Marco brought along six vintages of his wines and the rest of us each brought along some bottles to share.  We enjoyed some great wines and for me it was my first time to taste the Bellavista Chianti, which I fell in love with.  We drank:

Wines from Marco:

2006 Vigneto La Casuccia Chianti Classico is a blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. A very good wine, albeit a bit on the modern side.  My least favorite of his wines.

2006, 2007, 1990 Bellavista.  This is the flagship Chianti of the estate.  A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Malvasia Nera, they each drank beautifully.  The ’90 was firing on all cylinders and evolved with each sip.  This was a beautifully crafted, round and delicious wine. The ’06 and ‘07 both will benefit from a few more years in the cellar and will in the future perhaps be as profound as the ’90.

2006, 2010 L’Apparita.  Made from 100% Merlot.  Two wines of finesse, depth and focus.  As with all of the wines I kept going back to them to see how they evolved in the glass.  I found no disappointments. 

Wines from table:

1983 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Emil).  Unfortunately the wine was flawed.

1985 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Magnum (Mark).  I really believe this wine is drinking at its peak right now.  Fantastic expression of terroir and old world style wine making. Vibrant fruit, impeccable balance and a monster finish.

1998 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Steve).  Perhaps a step (short one) behind the ’85.  Lots of years of happy drinking ahead for this wine.  Ditto ‘85 notes.

1995 Castello di Ama Bellavista Chianti Classico (Steve).  The equal to the 1990 that Marco brought along.  Round and delicious.

Poggio Antico ’04 Brunello Riserva (can not recall his name).  Wine however was outstanding.  Great example of a well crafted, traditional Brunello.

Thanks Antonio, Marzia, James and all the wine producers for another terrific Vinous event.   Looking forward to the next one.

With our host, Antonio Galloni

Saluté

Italy’s Rising Stars

Natale and Tony Grande

This past Monday I once again hosted a Gourmet Wine dinner to benefit the Hemophilia Association of New Jersey (HANJ).  It had been more than a year since the last event as the wines I wanted to serve took some time to locate and confirm in sufficient quantity. My thanks to Jeff Goldstern of The New York Wine Warehouse for procuring all the wines and providing them at a discounted price for the event.

Great wine is only part of the equation for this event.  The wines must be complemented by exceptional food to be truly appreciated and vice versa.  Thus it is imperative that I extend my sincere thanks once again to Tony Grande (owner), Natale Grande (Executive Chef), Salvatore Le Rose (Maitre'd/Wine Director) and the very professional staff of Il Capriccio Ristorante in Whippany, NJ for once again fulfilling their part of the equation.

This year’s event netted more than $40,000 bringing our total to somewhere in the neighborhood of $750,000 since my first dinner about 20 years ago.  I want to thank all of my friends, coagulation manufacturers and home care companies whose financial support makes this remarkable event possible.  As for HANJ, I have always said that if I had hemophilia or a child with hemophilia and I did not live in NJ, I would move here to have access to their support.  Led by Executive Director Elena Bostick and her committed staff, HANJ has accomplished more for families that live with hemophilia than any other state in the country.  Once again hats of to you and the hemophilia treatment centers that mange the medical needs of the community.

Since my last dinner featured the wines of perhaps Italy’s greatest winemaker, Giuseppe Quintarelli, this year posed a challenge.  When it comes to wine, especially Italian wine, there is no better person to turn to than Antonio Galloni.  I think it would be fair to say that Antonio has emerged as the world’s most knowledgeable and respected wine writer.  His website, Vinous Media, not quite a year old, has subscribers in more than 50 countries.  The site is loaded with great information and boasts the best bulletin board for members to share ideas and notes with one another.  If you are a wine lover, please check it out.

I am fortunate to be able to call Antonio a friend, so I turned to him for suggestions for this year’s event.  He happily obliged, “why don’t you showcase the wines of Italy’s rising stars?” he suggested.  What a great idea, especially since he was willing to suggest the winemakers.   So that’s what I did.  With the help of Jeff Goldstern as noted above I was able to “make it happen!” (And yes, all the wines are available for purchase from Jeff).  Had Antonio not been hosting his own event in London, England on the same evening, he would have joined us.

Cocktail Hour

Tony and Natale Grande have elevated the very predictable cocktail hour found at most functions to new levels with pristinely fresh ingredients cooked to perfection and served with an Italian flair.   They say a picture is worth 1000 words, so I will allow the pictures taken by Master Photographer, Gene Urban, owner of Impressive Impressions to do the talking.

Linguine with Veal Meatballs

Beef Meatballs

Smoked Salmon Canapés w/Capers

Pollo (chicken) Alceto e Vino Bianco

Rack of Baby Lamb Chops Scottapipa

Gamberi all'Americani

Fried Zucchini Flowers stuffed with fresh Ricotta

Not pictured are Zucchini Fritelle (fried zucchini cakes) and chunks of Parmigianno Reggion Cheese which rounded out this amazing array of appetizers.

With the appetizers we enjoyed Borgo del Tiglio Collio Bianco 2010 (White label).  This bottling is the estate’s entry level wine and is drawn from barrels that weren't used for the higher-end Studio di Bianco bottling.  A blend of Tocai, Sauvignon, Riseling and a touch of Malvasia, this was a knockout wine. It possessed a fantastic sparkling light yellow hue, enormous bouquet with a pure, focused and fresh palate and magnificent finish.  $38.  New York Wine Warehouse

Located on the hillsides near Gorzia in the DOC Collio area in the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy, founder and winemaker Nicola Manferrari has been producing some of the most compelling Italian white wines the country has ever seen since 1981.  To highlight the influence of the terroir (marl and sandstone soil) the grapes from each plot are kept separate in the winemaking process. All Borgo del Tiglio whites are fermented in barrel. Borgo del Tiglio makes two ranges of wines; the white labels are considered the entry and mid-tier wines, while the dark green label is reserved for the Selezioni, or the top selections.

The red that Antonio suggested with the appetizers was Stella di Campalto Rosso di Montalcino 2010. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes that are fermented with natural yeasts in large wooden vats for one month.  The wine was then aged for 21 months in medium-sized oak followed by 7 months in the bottle before release.  About 12,000 bottles are produced.  The wine had a compelling and earthy bouquet with a complex and pure palate.  Tannins are beginning to soften and the wine finished with considerable length. This wine will give many of the more pricey Brunellos a run for the money.  $40.  New York Wine Warehouse.

Stella di Campalto is a recently resuscitated estate in the rolling hills of Brunello di Montalcino, that was purchased by the di Campalto family in 1992.  The estate comprises just under thirteen and a half hectares in total, with five and a half currently committed under vine. The head of the family winery is the lovely Stella di Campalto, who has overseen the winemaking and viticulture since 1992, and has practiced certified organic farming here since 1996. In 2002 the estate went a step further in natural viticultural practices and began practicing biodynamic farming as well.

Dinner - Appetizer

We began the sit down dinner with Insalata di Pesce al Dragoncello, a cold seafood salad of Shrimp, Squid, and fresh Crabmeat with Fresh Tarragon.  I could taste the sea with each tender and delicious bite.  This was paired with Borgo del Tiglio Tocai Ronco della Chiesa 2010 (Green label).  While this may not have been a match made in heaven, it certainly is was a match made for

fresh seafood.  Made from 100% Tocai Friulano grapes, the wine displayed fantastic balance and wonderful, bracing acidity. On the palate it was crisp, pure, focused and evolved with each sip and had a delicious finish.   Selezioni, (the top selection bottling) it is only made in good years.  Only 3000 bottles were produced in 2010. This wine can last for another decade at least.  $60. New York Wine Warehouse.


Dinner - Pasta

The classic Roman pasta dish, Rigatoni all’Amatriciana followed the seafood salad.  Most people believe that “amatriciana” comes from Amatrice, a tiny town in the mountains bordering Abruzzo about 100 miles from Rome.  Some Romans however claim that the dish is truly alla matriciana, developed by Romans and that Amatrice had nothing to do with it.  Whatever one believes, the version from Natale Grande is nothing short of spectacular, consisting of double smoked guanciale (pork jowl) sweet tomatoes, onions, and the sharp, salty kick of pecorino cheese.  The wines we drank were traditionally made Nebbiolo gems from the 2009 vintage.

G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2009.  Situated in Vergne, the highest village in the Commune of Barolo, the estate was established in 1972.  This under the radar producer of traditional Barolo makes some of the most consistently high quality and affordable wines produced anywhere.  The wine tonight had a beautiful translucent red hue, huge earthy bouquet, a completely seductive palate of complex, focused and balanced fruit and had a delicate and elegant 45 second finish.  I believe it was the consensus wine of the night, I know it was for me. $30 (amazing value here).  NY Wine Warehouse.




Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2009.  Proprietor and winemaker Renato Vacca is to quote Antonio Galloni, “Making some of the most compelling wines in Piedmont today…Vacca is one of the most promising producers among the younger generation in Barbaresco.”  This was my first experience with this producer and it was a good one. Like most of the wines of this vintage it was medium-bodied, but displayed terrific balance, finesse and vibrant fruit.  While this is drinking well, it will only get better with a bit more time in the cellar and represents a great value for the money.  $47.  NY Wine Warehouse.

Dinner - Entrée

Our entrée was a tender and delicious Osso Buco di Maiale (Roasted Pork Shank with Yukon Gold Garlic Mashed Potatoes).  The photo below says it all about this stunning dish. We enjoyed two Tuscan gems with the dish.

Podere Forte Guardavigna 2009.  Located near Sienna in the Val d”Orcia region of Southern Tuscany, Pasquale Forte is crafting some of the region’s most sought after wines.  Biodynamic farming, attention to detail are a hallmark of the estate.  I had an opportunity to taste this wine a couple of week’s prior at a tasting in NYC. This is a full-bodied wine marked by firm tannins, intensified fruit, breadth and a bit of oak, which I believe will become integrated as the wine matures. It is a made from blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 46% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot.  $104.  NY Wine Warehouse.




Pian dell’Orino Brunello di Montalcino 2008.  One of the shining stars in Brunello di Montalcino, the estate is located right next door to the most famous name in Brunello history, Biondi Santi.   The wines ferment on their indigenous yeasts gently and thoroughly before being aged in a combination of barriques and large botti for one to several years prior to bottling, depending on the wine.  I found this to be balanced, full of finesse with a delightful harmonious elegance on the palate.  A very good Brunello for the money.  $78.  NY Wine Warehouse.

We finished this incredible meal with a cheese course of Parmigianno Reggiano & Gorgonzola Dolce and...

...an incredible Pannatone Bread Pudding that was paired with two Amarone wines from the Veneto Rgion of Italy.  

Amarone is a rich Italian dry red wine made from a blend of Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella grapes that are harvested ripe in the first two weeks of October.  The grapes are then allowed to dry, traditionally on straw mats for 120 days, so that they basically become raisins with a highly concentrated sugar content.  A bit higher in alcohol than most Italian red wines, the balance of sweetness and dryness the process yields can be a beguiling experience. 

Marion Amarone della Valpolicella 2008.  Proprietors Stefano and Nicoletta Campedelli tend to their wines in this small family-run business with maniacal passion, and that attention to detail that comes through in spades in these wines.  Celestino Gaspari who was the wine maker at Quintarelli for 20 years is the winemaker here.  This was a delicious Quintarelli-like traditional Amarone with gorgeous ripe fruit, impeccable balance, focus and depth on the palate.  Simply put it is a round and delicious wine that soars from the glass with each sip.  $75.  NY Wine Warehouse.

Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella 2008. Bruno Sartori established this relatively new estate, named after its most important vineyard Roccolo Grassi, in 1996. The estate makes their wine with a combination of new and old world techniques, and thus their red wines are more similar in style to Dal Forno Romano than Quintarelli.  The wine is aged carefully in selected large French Barriques and some Slovenian oak casks for 26 months.  While this was a good wine, the oak interferes with its elegance in my opinion.  If you like Dal Forno Romano Amaraone, here it is at about 1/4tr the cost.  $71.  NY Wine Warehouse.

Since we did not consume all the wine at the dinner, I decided to auction off what was left.  The group enthusiastically supported the idea and in less than 10 minutes we raised an additional $2800 fro HANJ.

Executive Director Elena Bostick was the successful bidder for the 2009 Podere Forte Guardavigna .

Thanks again to everyone who contributed to making this event a huge success all around.  See you next year!

Saluté

Wine Group at Home

Chefs Nick & Mark

Our monthly wine group met recently at my house. Usually we go to a local BYOB restaurant, but this month I suggested we meet at my house where my friend Nick Cusano and I would prepare the meal.  Nick and I both enjoy cooking. In addition to being a world-class architect (Cusano Associates), Nick is a fantastic cook and bread maker, and I always enjoy cooking with him.  Marc was in the queue for the wines, and his selection of Sagrantino wines from Umbria were top-notch and made for a fantastic evening.

The menu for the evening:

Nick’s homemade Rosemary Foccia and Italian bread

I have to say that living in NJ and with NYC a few miles away there is no shortage of great Italian bread, and Nick's will hold its own with the best of these. Taste, texture and density are amazing.

 Mozzarella di Bufala • Roasted Peppers • Vinegar Peppers

Zuppa di Vongole
Nick and I collaborated on this delicious Italian classic made with little neck clams, garlic, onion, celery, basil, white wine and a touch of red pepper flakes.  Sopping up the juice with Nick's bread is as good, if not better, than the clams themselves.

Weeds and Sausage
This is one of my favorite pasta dishes of all time.  The recipe is from Mario Batali’s book, Molto Italiano.  The tomato in the dish comes completely from tomato paste.  The tomato paste I use, Stratto, is very concentrated and comes from Sicily.  It elevates dishes to a new dimension.

Fricasseed Chicken with Bay Leaves
Sensational dish!  According to Nick, the secret is fast browning and slow braising. Fresh bay leaves are a must.  We licked our fingers clean.  The recipe can be found here.

Steak Florentine
Nick dry ages a thick Porterhouse Steak for three days and then applies a dry rub of garlic, pepper, and herbs.  He flash sears it in a pan than finishes it under the broiler.  It was incredibly tender and juicy.

Wines

The Sagrantino grape is unique to Umbria, Italy.  It is a deeply colored grape variety that produces one of Central Italy’s most tannic red wines.  The grape’s nature is most famously displayed in the Sagrantino di Montefalco region, where wines must be produced from at least 95% Sagrantino. The clay soils of Montefalco are dusted with sand and limestone pockets, which Sagrantino responds well to. Blends are permitted in the greater Montefalco DOC region.

Because of its high tannins, Sagrantino local law stipulates that it cannot be released until it has aged for at least 30 months.   The wine is produced by only a handful of producers in Montefalco and hardly grown outside Italy at all.

Even rarer than the dry red wine crafted from Sagrantino and its blends are the varietal passito wines of Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG. These concentrated wines, made from semi-dried grapes, are comparable to Vintage Port in their intensity and longevity.

2000 Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino Collepiano.  Along with Paolo Bea, Arnaldo Caprai is one of the icons of Sagrantino di Montefalco.  Caprai’s approach is to embrace modern winemaking techniques while Bea is a staunch traditionalist.  This wine is aged for 24-26 months in French oak barrique followed by a minimum of 6 months additional bottle aging. The wine had a deep ruby red hue and a big fruity nose.  The palate however had much too much oak for me, the result of the use of the new French oak it is aged in.  While this method produces a wine with softer tannins and thus can be drunk earlier than traditionally made wines, I find the oak overpowers the wine, making it very one-dimensional.  $97.  Wine Searcher

2000 Colpetrone Sagrantino di Montefalco Gold is made from the estate’s oldest vines in the Santa Maria del Fico and San Marco vineyards by famed consulting winemaker Riccardo Cotarella.  The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels followed by 24 months in bottle.   Like Caprai, Cotarella embraces modern techniques.  The oak here however was much better integrated than in the Caprai and did not overpower the wonderful fruit the wine possessed. It had nice balance and acidity and finished with some length.  At one-half the price of the Caprai, this is a very good value.  $47. Wine Searcher

2006 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Pagliaro.  Made from 100% Sagrantino grapes, this was a superb bottle of wine with an enticing earthy bouquet, round and delicious palate and a lengthy, soft finish.  The wine soared from the glass with each sip.  A wine with soul!  $65. Chambers Street Wines

In my opinion when you talk about Sagrantino, Paolo Bea is at the top of the summit. He pursues a natural, non-interventionalist approach to crafting his wines. The wines undergo fermentation without temperature control, using only ambient yeasts. Malolactic fermentation takes place in steel, though here, too, the timing and pace is dictated by nature.  The wines see 12 months in steel, followed by 24 months in large Slovanian oak barrels and 9 months of bottle age before being released for sale.  The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to being bottled, and all-important operations are undertaken according to the lunar calendar.

Bea is a founding member of Gruppo ViniVeri, a loose organization of Italian wine producers who are part of the growing natural wine movement. They are an interesting group of winemakers–not all are organic, nor even Biodynamic–but they are keen to respect the traditions of their zones and maintain a character in their wines that is unique and expressive. Eschewing international varieties in favor of indigenous grapes, working with the yeasts native to their vineyards and wineries, and a commitment to a minimal use of sulphur are among the tenets of their ViniVeri manifesto.

2001 Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni.  The 25 Anni is made from a selection of the best fruit and like the Collepiano sees 24-26 months in French oak barrique and minimum of 6 months aging in the bottle.  The wine was first produced in 1993.  This bottle was bigger and richer than the Collepian, and while the oak was better integrated, its presence was still there. Those who like big, modern wines, will surely enjoy this.  $105.  Wine Searcher

2000 Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni.  I liked this the best of the three Caprai wines.  The oak was much better integrated here, but it was still too modern to my liking.  $121. Wine Searcher.

2003 Paolo Bea Sagrantino di Montefalco Pagliaro.  Bea prefers hot vintages such as 2003 and 2007, and this bottle was an example of why he does. It exhibited a full fruity bouquet with great balance and purity on the palate.  Like the 2006 we drank before it, the wine evolved with every sip.  It displayed an almost Amarone like feel on the palate and the finish was lengthy and elegant.  Here again a wine with soul from a remarkable winemaker.  Unfortunately, this vintage does not appear to available any longer.

We concluded the meal with my wife Carol’s homemade Biscotti, assorted Italian pastries Cappuccino and Espresso.  I pulled a half bottle of 2001 Marion Passito Bianco from my cellar do drink along with the dessert.  A blend of 40% Garganega and 60% Trebbiano, it is made in a slightly oxidized style. The wine had a gorgeous amber hue, wonderful balance and a lush viscosity on the palate with a lengthy sweet Apricot finish.  $58.  Wine Searcher

Great selection of wines by Marc, and much thanks to Nick for his culinary skills.

Saluté

Insane Italian Wine Dinner

Last Tuesday night I had the good fortune, along with my friend Emil, to be invited to the  “Insane Italian Wine Dinner” hosted by Matt Tornabene, owner of Manhattan Wine Company.  The dinner was held at Sfoglia Restaurant in NYC.

The dinner was inspired by a trip Matt and his fiancé Kerrie took last year to Piedmont and Modena, Italy.  Having had the opportunity to visit and taste the wines of Giuseppe Rinaldi and G.B Burlotto while in Piedmont, and than the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva of Gianfranco Soldera while dinning in Modena (where he proposed to Kerri…she said yes.), they decided to “recreate the magic with our own little Baroli/Soldera tasting here in NYC”.  Matt goes on to say about this event, “I’m more convinced than ever that traditional wine-making is the key to making the most profound wines.  Manipulating the process and slapping the lipstick of new wood and modern wine-making techniques only hides the terroir and tricks you into thinking you are tasting something great.  Gianfranco Soldera said it best, “Striving for quality: that’s the point. There was a time when great care was taken in the search for beauty and excellence. Then the masses came to prefer the façade to what lies behind it.” I couldn’t agree more. I’ll take tradition and the least amount of intervention as possible over more modern techniques that may yield high scores with Parker and the like any time.  In the end, these traditional wines will stand the test of time.  They always have, and they always will.  " It was a great event.

As Emil and I arrived an hour early we settled in at the bar and perused the wine list, which is under the direction of Sfoglia Sommelier Maria Rust.  I was very impressed by her selections that included some of Italy’s most artisanal wine producers.  We selected a glass of 2011 Zidarich Vitoska to sip while we waited for the dinner to start.  It was a great way to begin the evening. This “orange wine” (skins remain in contact with the juice during fermentation to impart the color) is one of the few I had yet to taste.  As a big fan of these type wines, I jumped at the chance to try it.  Made with the Vitoska grape by Friulian winemaker and owner Beniamino Zidarich, it had a deep golden hue, as opposed to the more orange color of Gravner or Vodipovec wines.  On the palate it displayed a pleasant stony minerality and pure fruit, but was a bit too cold to really appreciate.  As it warmed it took on a bit more depth and finesse.  These type wines should always be drunk at red wine temperature to fully appreciate them.  This wine will benefit from a year or two of cellar time in my opinion.  $30.  Wine Searcher.



Food

Antipasti della Casa
Clams, Chilis & Tomato 
Burrata, Radishes, Sesame

Pappardelle alla Bolognese
Polenta Bianca, Spicy Sausage, Celery Root
Chicken al Mattone
Lamb chops, White Beans, Carrots, Lavender

Caramel Bread Pudding
Italian Cookies

TThe food was a terrific complement to the wines Matt selected and brought along. We began with two Italian whites from the Sfoglia cellar and selected by sommelier Maria.

2012 SP68 Bianco, Arianna Occhipinti.   This Sicilian white is made from a blend of Albanello and Moscato di Allesandria.  The wine is aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and then bottled unfiltered where it ages for a further month before being released.  SP68 refers to the road she must cross to reach her vineyards.  The wine had very good acidity and balanced fruit but had much too much perfume for me on both the nose and palate.  The perfume did begin to settle down after 30 minutes in the glass.  $30.  Wine Searcher.

2009 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Emidio Pepe.  I am a huge fan of Pepe’s wines.  He never fails to create amazingly complex age worthy reds and whites, that along with Eduardo Valentini are the standard of the region.  The vineyards are located in the northern province of Teramo, with siliceous soil rich in lime and iron. The Trebbiano is foot trodden in wooden tubs in order to avoid the contact between the iron presses and the acids of the fruit. The resulting white wines are slightly golden hued, well balanced and complex.

The grapes are grown organically, hand-harvested, hand destemmed, naturally fermented and aged 18-24 months in glass-lined tanks. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, without added SO2, and aged in their cellar, in bottle, for continued development. Before release, the wines are decanted by hand into new bottles, and then labeled.

Tonight’s bottle was classic Pepe Trebbiano, rich, focused and full of finesse, however it did finish a bit short.  In my opinion it is still too young to drink and needs a few more years cellar time.  $70.  Wine Searcher.

The large format reds that Matt brought along were very much the stars of the evenings.

1985 Barolo, Bartolo Mascarello (Magnum).  This bottle was a lot more tired than the magnum I had last November.  The fruit on the palate lacked the vibrancy of the November bottle. 

1995 Barolo, Monvigliero, Comm G. B. Burlotto (Double Magnum).  Wow was this good.  I am new to Burlotto’s wines, having only tried them a couple of times.  That is changing, as these are magnificent examples of traditionally made Barolo.  This exhibited a terroir-laden bouquet with superbly balanced and focused fruit on the palate. Completely round and delicious with a 30+ second finish.  Simply a magnificent wine.

1999 Barolo, Brunate Le Coste, Giuseppe Rinaldi (Magnum). Every inch the equal to the Burlotto with a bit more richness on the palate.  Another monster finish here.

Emil admires the Burlotto

2005 Brunello di Montalcino, Casse Basse Riserva, Gianfranco Soldera (Magnum).  WOTN for me.   Soldera is THE master craftsman.  In my opinion his Case Basse is the epitome of traditionally made Brunello.  Tonight’s wine had it all beginning with an enticing earthy bouquet that dazzled the senses.  Soldera wines always exhibit a gorgeous translucent red cryttal-like hue.  He believes that one should be able to see one’s finger through the wine after it is poured into the glass as was the case tonight.  On the palate the wine soared with lush and vibrant fruit, had impeccable balance and complexity and finished with elegance an length. Truly a wine with soul!

These wines will not be easy to find and will be very expensive if you do.  I thank Matt for pulling them together and sharing them with an intimate group of his friends and clients. 

NV Barolo Chinato, Cappellano.  A digestivo wine that is made from a blend of herbs, spices and essential oils that are steeped in Barolo wine. I have never been a fan of this or any digestivo for that matter, but I learned tonight that by putting a single ice cube in a dessert wine glass with the Chinato results is a very pleasant after dinner drink.  $85.  Chambers Street Wines, Amanti Vino.

It was a fantastic evening.   Thanks Matt for including me.

Saluté

1989 Barolo - Blind Tasting

The 1989 vintage for Barolo and Barbaresco is amongst the very best vintages ever.  If you are a lover of Nebbiolo and classic old world wine making, then it is a vintage you must try.  Yes it will be a bit pricey, but worth the indulgence to experience the vintage.

I had the privilege to be invited to a BYOB dinner of 1989 Barolo in NYC a couple of months ago. Eric Guido, a private chef and wine writer from NYC, organized the event.  I met Eric, along with the other attendees at the dinner, on Antonio Galloni’s Vinous website.  We met at I Truli Ristorante in NYC.  The food was delicious and complemented the wines beautifully.  Not only did Eric do a terrific job in organizing the evening, he captured the event beautifully in his blog on The VIP Table.  Ken Vastola, who I finally had the opportunity to meet, is one of the most knowledgeable Nebbiolo people in on the planet; also did a fantastic job in capturing the event with sensational photos as well as insightful comments.   Check out his blog, Fine Wine Geek.  As both did such a great job I will only include a photo of the wine line-up.

It was decided by the group to conduct this tasting blind.  I believe I was the only one who voted against doing the tasting blind.  In my opinion blind tastings distract from tasting and more importantly experiencing the wine.  In the end they always seem to devolve into comparing wines to one another and picking the wine or wines of the night.  Supporters of blind tasting say that by not knowing the wine you preclude the possibility of someone being prejudice, especially with the wine her or she brought.  The idea of being prejudice is absurd in my opinion, especially at a tasting like this where everyone present is obviously prejudice to the Nebbiolo grape.

Let’s get to what I consider the nitty-gritty.  Wines are dynamic and living.  It is rare that two bottles from the same vintage are going to taste exactly alike, especially if time has elapsed between tastings.  We have all had bottles of wine that were magnificent on one occasion, and yet on another occasion, it was “off”.  It is the nature of the beast.  However when one knows what one is drinking, it is possible to compare it to a previous bottle, be it a week, month, year or years before that the same wine/vintage was tasted.  It provides the information I want, which is about this wine, not how it compares to other wines. 

Famed wine importer and renowned wine writer, Kermit Lynch says of blind tasting, “Blind tastings are to wine what strip poker is to love”.  Okay I have had my say so let me get on to the food and wine.  

All of the wines were opened at about 1 PM and allowed to slow-ox for 5 to 6 hours.

Our antipasti consisted of 4 small and spectacular plates of Antipasti Misti, Carne Crudo, Polenta with Wild Mushrooms and Vitello Tonnato. 

First Flight

1989 Pruduttori Ovello Barbaresco –  I am a big fan of the Produttori Riservas, and this certainly did not disappoint.   The fruit was still quite young and the palate had that wonderful feminine elegance and balance so typical of these wines.

1989 Roagna Riserva Barbaresco – Great earthy bouquet, but alas the wine was corked.

1989 Bartollo Mascarello – Classic old world Barolo.  As much as I enjoyed this, it lacked the vibrant fruit, complexity and elegance of a bottle I had a few months before, which was simply magnificent.   This bottle brought to mind the Hugh Johnson quote, "There are no great wines, only great bottles of wine."

 

1989 Cavallotto San Giuseppe – Corked.

Second Flight

1989 Aldo Conterno Cicala - Beautiful translucent red hue, sensual bouquet, young vibrant fruit, tons of complexity and impeccable balance.  Finish was long and elegant.  A wine with real soul!

1989 Elio Grasso Gavarini – Earthy, with dark, ripe fruit.  Excellent balance and nice lengthy finish.

1989 Aldo Conterno Colonnello – While a terrific bottle of wine, on this night it was not, in my opinion, up to the Cicala, although most thought it the other way around. 

1989 Rocche dei Manzoni Riserva – Another classic old world Barolo that drank beautifully.

For our entrée there was a magnificently prepared Brasato al Barolo: Short Rib of Beef Braised in Barolo Wine. 

Third Flight

1989 Brovia Rocche – Corked

1989 Vietti Rocche – This was superb.  By far the most youthful wine of the evening.  The wine simply soared from the glass.

1989 Vietti Villero – A small step behind the Rocche on this night.  Gorgeous bouquet, color and balance.  Finished with considerable length.

1989 Giacosa Villero – corked

Dessert consisted of Fontina and Toma cheese, with Maraschino Mostarda.

Fourth Flight

1989 G. Conterno Cascina Francia – Absolutely gorgeous from the translucent red hue to the youthful, complex and balanced palate. From a great winemaker, a classic wine from a classic vintage. 

1989 Cascini Bruni Vigna Batistot – New producer for most of us.  It was delicious and had a soft, velvet finish.

1989 Prunotto Cannubi – This drank beautifully.  I don’t have a lot of experience with this producer, but based on this, I would buy some in a heartbeat.

1989 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate Riserva – Drank on a par with the G. Conterno.  A simply round and delicious wine and another great example of a great wine in a great vintage from a great winemaker.

In my opinion, I thought that the Cascina Francia, Rinaldi Brunate Riserva, Vietti Rocche and A. Conterno Ciacala were the wines that delivered the best experience of this great vintage, at least to my palate.  In reality it really did not make a difference to me that the tasting was blind. The evening was spectacular.  I got to make some new wine friends, eat great food and drink great wine.  Thanks again Eric for coordinating the evening.

Photo compliments of Eric Guido

One final comment, if you love Nebbiolo, like those of us who attended this dinner and you do not own any 1989s, seek them out asap.  You will be glad you did.

Saluté